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Routes in Chimney Rock

Chimney Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Frances' Secret Handshake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Learning Curve, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ukrainian Challenge , The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: FA: Jake Burgart, Tyson Ferryman, Kirk Miller FFA: Jake Burgart
Page Views: 1,151 total, 68/month
Shared By: Jcburgart on Jun 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

The pristine location, quality of rock, and variance of movement and handholds on vertical granite rock will ensure that The Learning Curve leaves both a historic mark in Staunton State Park and a lasting impression on the climbing community.

The Learning Curve will test your strength, stamina, and route-reading ability over lengthy 5.11 climbing and multiple 5.12 cruxes. Rampy granite blocks and a thin face, which culminates in a technical, reachy crux comprise the first 60% of this route.

After a welcome rest, the eye-catching green lichen streak contains unrelenting thin, vertical crimping on wandering holds. The start of the green streak contains the main crux, which revolves around a large sloper. A redpoint crux defends the last bolt and anchors.

This is truly a masterpiece!

The largest thank you goes out to both Kirk Miller and Tyson Ferryman. The establishment of this climb never would have occurred without years of foresight and hard, dedicated work.

Location

Look for the green lichen streak. Start directly below it, at the 2-bolt belay anchor, which is on the left hand side of the slab base.

Protection

2 bolt anchor, 2 bolt belay, 2 alpine quickdraws, 19 quickdraws, and a 70m rope are required.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Great route, guys! Fantastic climbing the whole way with plenty of rest in between cruxes. The bolt placements are good enough, and people can always bring slings to mitigate rope drag, it's not a big deal. This route will attract slab masters from all across the state once the access opens up a bit. Jul 24, 2017
Great route, but there a few things about the way this route is equipped that I have criticize. First, what I liked about it was the fact that in one long pitch, you get a warm up followed by continuous 5.12 climbing, followed by even harder crux climbing. There are good rests between each section.

Now for what I didn't like. First, at the top of warm up climbing (5.10d/11a) the route gains a good shelf & traverses right. The 7th? bolt that you clip from the shelf is so far left, you must clip out of it. It could be been placed 5-6 feet to the right & this would straighten out the rope line.

Second, the middle part of the climb has continuous 5.12 climbing up to where it traverses left, after the 11th? bolt, to a small ledge. Adding a bolt for the last hard moves before traversing left would be nice. This bolt is not absolutely needed, but it would be nice.

Third, is the 12th? bolt off left, that you clip after the traverse from the small ledge. This bolt is awful far to the left & does cause some rope drag. It could be better located to the right.

Fourth & most concerning is the crux (14th?) bolt. If you can't figure out the crux, you'll be calling down for the stick clip. Conveniently aiding through this section is not an option. It seemed a higher bolt could clipped from a large diagonal hold above the crux bolt. This would better protect the crux & allow the moves to be worked or aided through . Jul 23, 2017
Jcburgart  
 
Congrats on the direct beta, Tyson, that way is powerful! Jul 6, 2016
Tyson Ferryman
Bailey, CO
  5.12d
Tyson Ferryman   Bailey, CO
  5.12d
Onsight spoiler alert!!!

On my RP, I was able to move straight up on bad crimpers and not move left around the sloping match hold. Having worked out the beta on both ways to do the crux sequence, I'd say straight up is harder, maybe by a letter grade. Jul 6, 2016
Tyson Ferryman
Bailey, CO
  5.12d
Tyson Ferryman   Bailey, CO
  5.12d
I would give this 5 stars, out of four! Jun 29, 2016