All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Elk Creek Spires

Chimney Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Chimney Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chimney Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Ever Abel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Frances' Secret Handshake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Learning Curve, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Left Ear Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mantelpiece T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Right Ear Up T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ukrainian Challenge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	8,745 ft	2,665 m
GPS:	39.50653, -105.4142 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	22,988 total · 190/month
Shared By:	Kirk Miller on Mar 24, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Access Issue: Closure: Dam Rehabilitation Details

Chimney Rock and the nearby trails will be closed from Monday through Friday starting August 4th to allow room for crews working ok the Elk Falls Dam Rehabilitation Project. There is no estimated time for reopening, but the area is open to the public on weekends.

Per

Just another s…: the dam closure is Sunday - Friday per this link - cpw.state.co.us/state-parks….

Description

This amazing granite spire rises proudly above Elk Falls. The 40 meter Chimney Route is the easiest way to the summit.

The sport climbs here provide a fantastic alternative to lugging in the whole trad rack, but the trad and mixed routes make it worth your while.

Getting There

Make your way to the Elk Falls Pond cabin on North Elk Creek. If you take the Bugling Elk Trail, the walk is pretty flat. It can be ridden by mountain bike fairly easily.

The Marmot Pass and Scout Line trails cross over the ridge above depositing you at the cabin as well. They're harder but worth hiking to check out the terrain.

From the cabin, head uphill on the Lion's Back Trail. After you go up the hill a bit, take a left on the Chimney Rock Trail. A very pleasant stroll for a mile and bit more takes you to the Elk Falls Trail which drops to the base of the spire on it's way to Elk Falls. From the saddle at the top of the Elk Falls Trail, a short scramble through trees on the North side gets you to most of the established climbs.

8 Total Climbs

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Location:	Chimney Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 5 ● Chimney Route Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 7 ● Right Ear Up Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 7 ● Left Ear Down Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 20 ● The Ukrainian Challenge Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 7 ● Ever Abel Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 22 ● Frances' Secret Handshake Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Mantelpiece Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 13 ● The Learning Curve Sport

● Chimney Route

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad

● Right Ear Up

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Left Ear Down

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● The Ukrainian Challenge

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad

● Ever Abel

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Frances' Secret Handshake

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches

● Mantelpiece

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches

● The Learning Curve

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

More Classic Climbs in Chimney Rock »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Routes Mostly Face: Northeast

Sunny Roughly 6am to 12pm during high season

6am

8pm

Details: Routes left of Chimney Route get shade after 12 in summer, with the Ukranian Challenge and other Westside routes being in the sun all afternoon.