Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 152 total · 5/month
Shared By: Flava Flav on May 20, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The prominent waterstreak with pockets on the upper tier above Sonic Youth. The bottom starts out with 5.9ish face and pulling on fun pockets to a bolt. From there up then right to the obvious crux, an overhang with big, big jugs to crank out on. Hard moves are just after the second bolt, after the third bolt it eases up and big pockets head up to the anchor. Nice big holds! An unsustained but interesting route with a 12 ft crux, not a lot of happy gear placements, so be strong above second and last bolt.

Location

Way before you would head right I to the canyon to sonic youth cliff, head up the white sandstone ridges on the left to the top of the cliff. Look right for the pool of water/waterstreak. Bolts available on the right. Rapping in seems convenient, have not done the traverse. There is also a natural thread at the base, so you could access many of the routes' anchors from this thread. Be advised, the old cord/webbing needs replacing, fat rap ring still fine. 50m cord is fine for both this line and down Sonic Youth.

Protection

I would suggest a single rack of cams (no nuts) from probably blue metolius to #3 camalot. One pink and one red tricam would work in two pockets to help get you to the first and second bolt, and would keep you from hitting the ledge. All cams would be in horizontals, and the pockets up top are very flaring with a very shallow #2 and probably a #3 above the last bolt might keep you from hitting the slab below. A two bolt anchor up top, I have my cordalette up there right now. I'll add two quicklinks later this week.

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