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Routes in Sonic Youth Cliff

Agent Orange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Flag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crankenstein T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everybodys Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fearless Freaks S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
GBH S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hooligans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Loki S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slam Dancin' With The Amish T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sonic Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Pile S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 142 total · 5/month
Shared By: Flava Flav on May 20, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The prominent waterstreak with pockets on the upper tier above Sonic Youth. The bottom starts out with 5.9ish face and pulling on fun pockets to a bolt. From there up then right to the obvious crux, an overhang with big, big jugs to crank out on. Hard moves are just after the second bolt, after the third bolt it eases up and big pockets head up to the anchor. Nice big holds! An unsustained but interesting route with a 12 ft crux, not a lot of happy gear placements, so be strong above second and last bolt.


Way before you would head right I to the canyon to sonic youth cliff, head up the white sandstone ridges on the left to the top of the cliff. Look right for the pool of water/waterstreak. Bolts available on the right. Rapping in seems convenient, have not done the traverse. There is also a natural thread at the base, so you could access many of the routes' anchors from this thread. Be advised, the old cord/webbing needs replacing, fat rap ring still fine. 50m cord is fine for both this line and down Sonic Youth.


I would suggest a single rack of cams (no nuts) from probably blue metolius to #3 camalot. One pink and one red tricam would work in two pockets to help get you to the first and second bolt, and would keep you from hitting the ledge. All cams would be in horizontals, and the pockets up top are very flaring with a very shallow #2 and probably a #3 above the last bolt might keep you from hitting the slab below. A two bolt anchor up top, I have my cordalette up there right now. I'll add two quicklinks later this week.



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