Slam Dancin' With The Amish
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Sonic Youth Cliff
|Agent Orange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Black Flag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Crankenstein T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Everybodys Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Fearless Freaks S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|GBH S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Hooligans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Loki S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Slam Dancin' With The Amish T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Sonic Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown Pile S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||P. & P. VanBetten, 6/89|
|Page Views:||916 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 7, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a pretty good route with a few cruxes. Low down There are some tough laybacks to start, and higher up, getting established above the bolted bulge. Both are 5.9-ish.
Approach the climb via a heady scramble (no gear if roped) and set a belay at the base of a 6" thick right-facing flake. CLimb the flake to a ledge ~8 meters up, then climb on face holds past a few bolts at a featured bulge (crux). Finish the climb on gear and belay up top.
LocationN-most end of the Sonic Youth Cliff, on the upper tier. This is approached from the N/NE by an insecure scramble that a beginner should be roped for if they are to do it at all (still a nasty swing).
To descend, we came back south quite far and hiked back N. to the base. There may be a shorter way.
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