Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: P. & P. VanBetten, 6/89
Page Views: 1,217 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a pretty good route with a few cruxes. Low down There are some tough laybacks to start, and higher up, getting established above the bolted bulge. Both are 5.9-ish.
Approach the climb via a heady scramble (no gear if roped) and set a belay at the base of a 6" thick right-facing flake. CLimb the flake to a ledge ~8 meters up, then climb on face holds past a few bolts at a featured bulge (crux). Finish the climb on gear and belay up top.

Location

N-most end of the Sonic Youth Cliff, on the upper tier. This is approached from the N/NE by an insecure scramble that a beginner should be roped for if they are to do it at all (still a nasty swing).
To descend, we came back south quite far and hiked back N. to the base. There may be a shorter way.

Protection

A few draws for the bolts plus a rack of nuts and cams to 2". The bottom offers a belay stance that can be protected with some extra cams from .5" to 1", which is a good idea.

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