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Routes in Sonic Youth Cliff

Agent Orange S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Flag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crankenstein T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Everybodys Slave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fearless Freaks S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
GBH S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hooligans S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Loki S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slam Dancin' With The Amish T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Sonic Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Pile S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: P. & P. VanBetten, 6/89
Page Views: 1,018 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This is a pretty good route with a few cruxes. Low down There are some tough laybacks to start, and higher up, getting established above the bolted bulge. Both are 5.9-ish.
Approach the climb via a heady scramble (no gear if roped) and set a belay at the base of a 6" thick right-facing flake. CLimb the flake to a ledge ~8 meters up, then climb on face holds past a few bolts at a featured bulge (crux). Finish the climb on gear and belay up top.


N-most end of the Sonic Youth Cliff, on the upper tier. This is approached from the N/NE by an insecure scramble that a beginner should be roped for if they are to do it at all (still a nasty swing).
To descend, we came back south quite far and hiked back N. to the base. There may be a shorter way.


A few draws for the bolts plus a rack of nuts and cams to 2". The bottom offers a belay stance that can be protected with some extra cams from .5" to 1", which is a good idea.


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