Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, Tarn Callis, Gene Terray, Peter Boveng & Piet Bazuin - August 1981
Page Views: 583 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alex Palombitch on May 2, 2016 with updates from Matt Wenger
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

A fun harder variation to start Skyline Arete, or can be done as just a 2 pitch route. It starts on the north side of the buttress, just to the left of the start of skyline:

p1 - starts on a flake leading up to a handcrack, follow the handcrack until you are above a small tree, then step right to another handcrack and top out on the same ledge as skyline.

p2 - ascends the slabby bolted face just left of the rap anchors, some gear can be placed on this pitch.

Over all, a great climb with pitch 1 being the money pitch. Can't believe this hadn't been added yet, a fair value 5.9 in the gallatin. Go send it!

Gear

A standard canyon rack from .3 to a 3 camalot would be fine, we did find some superb offset nut placements on the first pitch. And 3 draws for the 3 bolts on the second pitch.

Descent

Finish Skyline Arete, or rappel over Crystal Caper with 2 ropes.

Photos

Matt Wenger
Bozeman
 
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
 
If you don't want to top out, or just have one rope, you can escape right near the top and rappel from the Skyline rings on the south side of the buttress. 60m rope makes it down from here. See photo beta. May 5, 2018