Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, Jack Tackle, and Tom Kalakay (Sept. 1984)
Page Views: 220 total · 49/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on Aug 4, 2018
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

A more adventurous and spicy way to top out on Skyline! The fantastic final pitch makes this climb worth it; a 40' super airy, steep, fingers to thin hand crack. Glorious!

Pitch 1: (5.8, 80') Climb up moderate terrain to a notch just behind the left side of Stigmata tower. Fun pitch.

Pitch 2: (5.10b, 130') This somewhat scary looking pitch ascends an open book up the North side of this small prow. You can reach around the arete and clip some bolts on the river facing side (recommended). Belay at the base of a reddish colored tower.

Pitch 3: (5.9, 100') Step left around the North facing side of the red tower and climb ok cracks. Once on top, angle slightly right and belay near the base of the massive chimney.

Pitch 3a: Climb the river facing side of the red tower. Gear is sparse, but there. Climbing is straightforward. (5.8 R, unless you have a yellow BD 0.2 or purple #0 mastercam, then maybe just PG13)

Pitch 4: (5.10c/d, 140') The money pitch! Clambor up a few feet in the chimney, being sure to take note of the MASSIVE block that appears to be resting on next to nothing. Start stemming, and eventually get yourself onto the South facing side of the chimney. Climb a few more feet up to a good ledge on the arete. You can build an optional belay here to manage rope drag if you want, but I didn't find it too bad just running it to the top.

Start working your way left out onto the steep and airy N. face of the prow, and get ready for the fun. Finish up the obvious & steep finger/thin hand crack to the top. Don't try to find any left feet. There aren't any. I belayed way back against the toe of the next step. Save some 0.75 & 1" cams for the hand crack section.

Descent: Walk off to the East uphill, and join the main climbers descent trail down the south side. Very obvious from heavy traffic.

Location

Start just about 20 feet climbers left of the striking red Stigmata tower. Look way up and to your left. The thin prow way up high is where you are headed!

Protection

Double cams from 0.3 to 2" with one 3" piece, and a good healthy set of stoppers. Extra finger sized cams, stoppers, and micros are nice, but not required. I had a set of BD offset cams and found them handy, as I often do in the Gallatin.

Photos

Ryan Locati
Bozeman
Ryan Locati   Bozeman
Anyone know what the deal with the bolting on P2 is? Is it a separate route? It sure is strange but it shouldn’t deter from doing this route Aug 17, 2018
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
  5.10c/d
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
  5.10c/d
Ryan, I don’t know about the bolts being another route or not, but it sure seems like it. The MAG guy I was talking to about it didn’t seem to know either. Aug 25, 2018