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> e. Les surplombs
Paraplégique
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in e. Les surplombs
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Alpha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Alpha Beta S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Alpha Gamma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Alphapluie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Canicule S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cinq Vibrateurs S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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La Vie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Les Dinosaures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Parapluie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Paraplégique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Parasol S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peu... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Picnic à Orford S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taxe Carbonique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Vampire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Vitamine C S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Welcome to Jam Rock S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mathieu Fontaine |
| Page Views: | 765 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016 |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Access Issue: SEPAQ day fee to be payed at parking or online
Details
Trails to the cliff are closed during the thaw to prevent excessive trail damage.
Climbing on the cliff, nearby trails and Revenant boulders is restricted to late July due to peregrine falcon nesting. The rest of the boulders are accessible.
sepaq.com/pq/tarification-p…
Park number (1 800 665-6527)
To
French
Les sentiers sont fermés du début du printemps jusqu'a la mi-mai pour prévenir les dommages au réseau de sentiers, vérifier avec le SEPAQ avant d’y aller, mettant en danger l’accès et se faire infliger une amende.
Certains sentiers et l’escalade sur les falaises sont également limités de début mai à fin juillet en raison de la nidification du Faucon pèlerin.
Numéro du parc (1 800 665-6527)
Climbing on the cliff, nearby trails and Revenant boulders is restricted to late July due to peregrine falcon nesting. The rest of the boulders are accessible.
sepaq.com/pq/tarification-p…
Park number (1 800 665-6527)
To
French
Les sentiers sont fermés du début du printemps jusqu'a la mi-mai pour prévenir les dommages au réseau de sentiers, vérifier avec le SEPAQ avant d’y aller, mettant en danger l’accès et se faire infliger une amende.
Certains sentiers et l’escalade sur les falaises sont également limités de début mai à fin juillet en raison de la nidification du Faucon pèlerin.
Numéro du parc (1 800 665-6527)
Description
Interesting and unique route, this one is popular with boulderers who are looking for a quick tick, as the crux is concentrated at the bottom, and most people protect it with a stick-clip.
It is also one of the driest routes at the crag, and is a good choice for a rainy day.
Start by standing on the log or pile of cheater stones to reach a good right-hand pinch on the left side of the prow, and a low shelf (if small) or very poor pinch (if tall) for your left hand.
Being unable to start with the right-hand pinch, might warrant a slight rating upgrade (12d), but you could always jump-start.
Pull up and get a foot on the prow (crux), then slap a sharp hold up and left and move under the overhang. From there, climb up and slightly left to another hard sequence to reach the obvious vertical crack and easy climbing above.
Cruise the dihedral up to an overhang and power throught the big holds up to the anchor on your right.
Can be extended up and right in the brown roof (Paraplégique Extension, 12d) for full value, or up and left in the white roof (More Fire, 13b) for a much more involved climb.
It is also one of the driest routes at the crag, and is a good choice for a rainy day.
Start by standing on the log or pile of cheater stones to reach a good right-hand pinch on the left side of the prow, and a low shelf (if small) or very poor pinch (if tall) for your left hand.
Being unable to start with the right-hand pinch, might warrant a slight rating upgrade (12d), but you could always jump-start.
Pull up and get a foot on the prow (crux), then slap a sharp hold up and left and move under the overhang. From there, climb up and slightly left to another hard sequence to reach the obvious vertical crack and easy climbing above.
Cruise the dihedral up to an overhang and power throught the big holds up to the anchor on your right.
Can be extended up and right in the brown roof (Paraplégique Extension, 12d) for full value, or up and left in the white roof (More Fire, 13b) for a much more involved climb.
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