Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mathieu Fontaine
Page Views: 224 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcons nesting closure from 2019-06-07 until further notice Details

Description

Interesting and unique route, this one is popular with boulderers who are looking for a quick tick, as the crux is concentrated at the bottom, and most people protect it with a stick-clip.

It is also one of the driest routes at the crag, and is a good choice for a rainy day.

Start by standing on the log or pile of cheater stones to reach a good right-hand pinch on the left side of the prow, and a low shelf (if small) or very poor pinch (if tall) for your left hand.
Being unable to start with the right-hand pinch, might warrant a slight rating upgrade (12d), but you could always jump-start.

Pull up and get a foot on the prow (crux), then slap a sharp hold up and left and move under the overhang. From there, climb up and slightly left to another hard sequence to reach the obvious vertical crack and easy climbing above.
Cruise the dihedral up to an overhang and power throught the big holds up to the anchor on your right.

Can be extended up and right in the brown roof (Paraplégique Extension, 12d) for full value, or up and left in the white roof (More Fire, 13b) for a much more involved climb.

Location

The obvious hanging orange prow in the cave.

Protection

9 permadraws to fixed biners at the anchor. You might want to stick-clip the 3rd bolt. Definitely stick-clip at least the first bolt.

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