Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 83 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcons nesting Details

Description

Often climbed up to the midway anchor at 5.10d, rarely climbed to the top because of its overall weirdness, this climb is nevertheless very interesting.

It sees much less traffic than its neighbor, Picnic à Orford, which has the cleaner line and the higher (albeit softer) grade, and pretty sequence of modern-style moves.

This one is bouldery, tricky, you might skip a bolt or two, and the upper slab moves will keep you on point until the victory jug near the anchor.

The lower part in itself is an excellent, delicate and long 5.10 whith suprisingly varied moves, trying to onsight this will definitely keep you on your toes.

Location

Starts with the leftmost line on the slab, climbs the shorter groove in the overhung part.
Climb on the big pedestal below the hanging slab, and carefully walk all the way left to reach the first bolt, or use a stick clip.

Protection

11 bolts. Overhung part has permadraws. Chains with quicklinks at the anchor.

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