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Routes in e - Les surplombs

Alpha Beta S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Alpha Gamma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Alphapluie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
BMW S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinq Vibrateurs S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Vie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Les Dinosaures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parapluie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Paraplégique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parasol S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peu... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Picnic à Orford S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Razzia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamine C S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Welcome to Jam Rock S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Falcons nesting Details

Description

Often climbed up to the midway anchor at 5.10d, rarely climbed to the top because of its overall weirdness, this climb is nevertheless very interesting.

It sees much less traffic than its neighbor, Picnic à Orford, which has the cleaner line and the higher (albeit softer) grade, and pretty sequence of modern-style moves.

This one is bouldery, tricky, you might skip a bolt or two, and the upper slab moves will keep you on point until the victory jug near the anchor.

The lower part in itself is an excellent, delicate and long 5.10 whith suprisingly varied moves, trying to onsight this will definitely keep you on your toes.

Location

Starts with the leftmost line on the slab, climbs the shorter groove in the overhung part.
Climb on the big pedestal below the hanging slab, and carefully walk all the way left to reach the first bolt, or use a stick clip.

Protection

11 bolts. Overhung part has permadraws. Chains with quicklinks at the anchor.

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