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Routes in e - Les surplombs

Alpha Beta S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Alpha Gamma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Alphapluie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
BMW S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinq Vibrateurs S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Vie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Les Dinosaures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parapluie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Paraplégique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parasol S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peu... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Picnic à Orford S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Razzia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamine C S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Welcome to Jam Rock S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chris Sharma
Page Views: 137 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Falcons nesting Details

Description

The hardest route at Orford to date, and until recently, the hardest route in the province.

Climb up the Parasol slab to a good rest, then undercling up and right to the base of an obvious pillar. Squeeze the pillar, clip, then move past a long reach, very poor slopers and shouldery moves on a sloping ledge to an obvious pair of perfect crimps. Ponder the distance to the great big jug and find a way to dyno up there. It will most likely involve a very awkward, powerful and difficult to coordinate sequence. Take a breath and finish up the weird slab, dihedrals and roof to the anchor.

This route an excellent combination of powerful and technical sequences, up perfect rock. Very bouldery, with barely any rests. It packs a dense sequence of 15 to 20 moves, the hardest of them being the last one.

It has seen a few ascents over the years, but remains a substancial challenge and has repelled the efforts of many seasoned 5.14 climbers.

Location

The overhanging pillar above Parasol which is the rightmost start on the hanging slab.

Protection

12 permadraws to fixed biners at anchor.

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