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Welcome to Jam Rock
5.14b YDS 8c French 33 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 33 ZA E9 7b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in e. Les surplombs
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Alpha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Alpha Beta S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Alpha Gamma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Alphapluie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Canicule S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cinq Vibrateurs S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Diplodocus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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La Vie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Les Dinosaures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Parapluie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Paraplégique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Parasol S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Parasol [Linkup] S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peu... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Picnic à Orford S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taxe Carbonique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Vampire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Vitamine C S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Welcome to Jam Rock S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 45.29387, -72.22846 |
| FA: | Chris Sharma |
| Page Views: | 1,410 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016 |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: SEPAQ day fee to be payed at parking or online
Details
Climbing on the cliff, nearby trails and Revenant boulders is restricted to late July due to peregrine falcon nesting. The rest of the boulders are accessible.
sepaq.com/pq/tarification-p…
Park number (1 800 665-6527)
To
French
Les sentiers sont fermés du début du printemps jusqu'a la mi-mai pour prévenir les dommages au réseau de sentiers, vérifier avec le SEPAQ avant d’y aller, mettant en danger l’accès et se faire infliger une amende.
Certains sentiers et l’escalade sur les falaises sont également limités de début mai à fin juillet en raison de la nidification du Faucon pèlerin.
Numéro du parc (1 800 665-6527)
Description
The hardest route at Orford to date, and until recently, the hardest route in the province.
Climb up the Parasol slab to a good rest, then undercling up and right to the base of an obvious pillar. Squeeze the pillar, clip, then move past a long reach, very poor slopers and shouldery moves on a sloping ledge to an obvious pair of perfect crimps. Ponder the distance to the great big jug and find a way to dyno up there. It will most likely involve a very awkward, powerful and difficult to coordinate sequence. Take a breath and finish up the weird slab, dihedrals and roof to the anchor.
This route an excellent combination of powerful and technical sequences, up perfect rock. Very bouldery, with barely any rests. It packs a dense sequence of 15 to 20 moves, the hardest of them being the last one.
It has seen a few ascents over the years, but remains a substancial challenge and has repelled the efforts of many seasoned 5.14 climbers.
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