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Routes in e - Les surplombs

Alpha Beta S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Alpha Gamma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Alphapluie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
BMW S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinq Vibrateurs S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Vie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Les Dinosaures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paraplégique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parasol S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peu... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Picnic à Orford S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Razzia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamine C S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Welcome to Jam Rock S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 113 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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Falcons nesting Details

Description

Very classic and popular line, its two pitches make for the longest link on the wall (barely possible to lower off from the top with a 70m rope).

Mostly done only up to the middle anchor to tick off that classic, juicy 12a, which puts it at the forefront of many endless grade debates, it is nevertheless a very interesting climb with varied moves up to a unique and awkward crux sequence.

The start is easy enough, up to a balancy section in the dihedral, to a rock over on a slab, up to a good rest at the base of a little overhung arete/bulge. The sequence up this feature is the crux, and has been the scene of many failed redpoint attempts. A hard clip and a tricky sequence up the arete might keep your ego in check for a few tries too many if you underestimate this climb.

The second pitch is a classic and varied face climb, taking full advantage of the wall by zig-zagging through it up to an exposed finish.

The original line has two excellent variants, both climbing up and left from the rest below the bulge (instead of right and up the arete):

a) 4x4 (12a), which climbs slightly up and left past a small roof then joins the original line at the first anchor;

b) Go-Kart (12b), which branches out further left to tackle the upper roof and joins the second pitch directly without the pit-stop at the middle anchor.

BMW is the sleek curvy, proud line that the rock seems to dictate, 4x4 is the route taken through seemingly rougher terrain, and Go-Kart will have you make obnoxious little engine noises as you wail time and again through its runouts and spanky cruxes.

Mostly considered easy for the grade (especially if you're tall), it is a great choice if you wish to break into 5.12.

Location

Starts in the dihedral formed by the hanging slab and the Grand Mur sector. Start by stepping up on a little ledge to reach the first bolt.

Protection

Pitch 1: 11 bolts to fixed biners at the anchor
Pitch 2: 5 bolts to lower-off

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