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Routes in e - Les surplombs

Alpha Beta S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Alpha Gamma S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Alphapluie S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
BMW S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cinq Vibrateurs S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Vie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Les Dinosaures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paraplégique S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Parasol S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peu... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Picnic à Orford S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Razzia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sha S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vitamine C S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Welcome to Jam Rock S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mathieu Fontaine
Page Views: 50 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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Falcons nesting Details

Description

Very bouldery overhanging bulge that constitutes the left wall of the BMW dihedral.

Climb up the vertical face or the easy moves at the start of BMW and step left to boulder up the bulge.

The 4th bolt is hard to clip; most ascents have been done with it stick-clipped (making them all but toprope ascents), but it is possible and safe to lead it propely.

A key hold also broke on this route in 2008, cementing the grade firmly at 13c.

An ideal choice for boulderers with long arms, one should still learn how to move properly on its holds, as pinching aimlessly at slick slopers or bearing down with abandon on its sharp crux crimp might send you packing earlier than expected.

Although it is considered as merely a roped boulder problem, you should still keep your cool after the crux to rock over the slab and go for either the popular finish (which joins 4x4 and the middle anchor of BMW), or the elegant finish, which climbs straight up Go-Kart and the second pitch of BMW to top out the crag.

High quality movement, but can be skin-piercing and frustrating. Almost always dry. Don't waste your time trying this in the sun.

Location

The bulge just left of BMW. Starts by rocking onto a small ledge, then stepping left to clip the first bolt.

Protection

9 bolts to fixed biners at the anchor.

Photos

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