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> d. Le grand mur
Razzia
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in d. Le grand mur
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4x4 (Variante de BMW) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Apologie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Apoplexie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Association S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Autonomie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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BMW S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Détecteur de Mensonges S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Indépendance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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La Grande Traversée S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Patacrack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Razzia S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rififi à Tannanarive S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Référendum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Souveraineté S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vapologie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mathieu Fontaine |
| Page Views: | 622 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016 |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Access Issue: SEPAQ day fee to be payed at parking or online
Details
Trails to the cliff are closed during the thaw to prevent excessive trail damage.
Climbing on the cliff, nearby trails and Revenant boulders is restricted to late July due to peregrine falcon nesting. The rest of the boulders are accessible.
sepaq.com/pq/tarification-p…
Park number (1 800 665-6527)
To
French
Les sentiers sont fermés du début du printemps jusqu'a la mi-mai pour prévenir les dommages au réseau de sentiers, vérifier avec le SEPAQ avant d’y aller, mettant en danger l’accès et se faire infliger une amende.
Certains sentiers et l’escalade sur les falaises sont également limités de début mai à fin juillet en raison de la nidification du Faucon pèlerin.
Numéro du parc (1 800 665-6527)
Climbing on the cliff, nearby trails and Revenant boulders is restricted to late July due to peregrine falcon nesting. The rest of the boulders are accessible.
sepaq.com/pq/tarification-p…
Park number (1 800 665-6527)
To
French
Les sentiers sont fermés du début du printemps jusqu'a la mi-mai pour prévenir les dommages au réseau de sentiers, vérifier avec le SEPAQ avant d’y aller, mettant en danger l’accès et se faire infliger une amende.
Certains sentiers et l’escalade sur les falaises sont également limités de début mai à fin juillet en raison de la nidification du Faucon pèlerin.
Numéro du parc (1 800 665-6527)
Description
Very bouldery overhanging bulge that constitutes the left wall of the BMW dihedral.
Climb up the vertical face or the easy moves at the start of BMW and step left to boulder up the bulge.
The 4th bolt is hard to clip; most ascents have been done with it stick-clipped (making them all but toprope ascents), but it is possible and safe to lead it propely.
A key hold also broke on this route in 2008, cementing the grade firmly at 13c.
An ideal choice for boulderers with long arms, one should still learn how to move properly on its holds, as pinching aimlessly at slick slopers or bearing down with abandon on its sharp crux crimp might send you packing earlier than expected.
Although it is considered as merely a roped boulder problem, you should still keep your cool after the crux to rock over the slab and go for either the popular finish (which joins 4x4 and the middle anchor of BMW), or the elegant finish, which climbs straight up Go-Kart and the second pitch of BMW to top out the crag.
High quality movement, but can be skin-piercing and frustrating. Almost always dry. Don't waste your time trying this in the sun.
Climb up the vertical face or the easy moves at the start of BMW and step left to boulder up the bulge.
The 4th bolt is hard to clip; most ascents have been done with it stick-clipped (making them all but toprope ascents), but it is possible and safe to lead it propely.
A key hold also broke on this route in 2008, cementing the grade firmly at 13c.
An ideal choice for boulderers with long arms, one should still learn how to move properly on its holds, as pinching aimlessly at slick slopers or bearing down with abandon on its sharp crux crimp might send you packing earlier than expected.
Although it is considered as merely a roped boulder problem, you should still keep your cool after the crux to rock over the slab and go for either the popular finish (which joins 4x4 and the middle anchor of BMW), or the elegant finish, which climbs straight up Go-Kart and the second pitch of BMW to top out the crag.
High quality movement, but can be skin-piercing and frustrating. Almost always dry. Don't waste your time trying this in the sun.
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