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Routes in AAA Crag
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"Unknown 1" S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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AAA S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Albuquerque Isotopes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Rusty Bridges S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Unknown 2 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 39.74317, -105.25079 |
| FA: | Mark Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,494 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Gaylord Focker’s doppelganger consists of three boulder problems, each a bit easier than the last, split by taxing rests. This line has the best rock on the formation, providing an engaging, pumpy outing that is quite sustained for a 40-foot climb.
The hardest sequence begins just off the ground, where the juggy, right-facing sidepull flake ends. Make a series of dynamic slaps between slanted edges, capped by a long stretch to a flat, horizontal rail. Mantel onto the rail for a strenuous shake with good hands and insecure feet. Step off the rail and into the next crux—more long cranks between small edges. Where the holds dry up, stretch for another horizontal rail--this one smaller but more positive than the last—where the route intersects “Unknown 1”. At this point, it’s possible to move right into AAA for a full recovery and trivial finishing sequence, but the FA stayed left of the arête, enjoying one more strenuous shake before another tricky mantle onto the featured slab.
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