Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 591 total · 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


Gaylord Focker’s doppelganger consists of three boulder problems, each a bit easier than the last, split by taxing rests. This line has the best rock on the formation, providing an engaging, pumpy outing that is quite sustained for a 40-foot climb.

The hardest sequence begins just off the ground, where the juggy, right-facing sidepull flake ends. Make a series of dynamic slaps between slanted edges, capped by a long stretch to a flat, horizontal rail. Mantel onto the rail for a strenuous shake with good hands and insecure feet. Step off the rail and into the next crux—more long cranks between small edges. Where the holds dry up, stretch for another horizontal rail--this one smaller but more positive than the last—where the route intersects “Unknown 1”. At this point, it’s possible to move right into AAA for a full recovery and trivial finishing sequence, but the FA stayed left of the arête, enjoying one more strenuous shake before another tricky mantle onto the featured slab.


This is the next bolted route left of the arête.


5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (shared with "Unknown 1" and AAA).



I enjoyed this line, it probably won't be a classic, but it is a fun offering if you are looking to get off the beaten path. I think it is a bit soft if you are tall. Nice job, Mark, thanks for all the additions to the canyon. Sep 1, 2016
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
It's a V7/8 to a 5.11, so I think 5.13a is more accurate. With that said, it's pretty fun for a short line on so-so rock. Feb 12, 2017