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Routes in AAA Crag

"Unknown 1" S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
AAA S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Albuquerque Isotopes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rusty Bridges S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown 2 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 129 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This line was in place before any of the “straight-up” lines were bolted. It snakes up the north wall, following the best flake-rails to avoid the wall’s obvious blank sections. There are three cruxy bits: leaving the ground (probably only cruxy for short climbers), a crimpy crank between rails around the 3rd bolt, and mantling onto the slab. This last crux can be eliminated by traversing all the way right to the AAA arête.

Location

Begin as for Isotopes, clipping that route’s 1st two bolts (long draw on the 2nd). Follow the diagonaling rails up and right, past another bolt, until the flakes peter out. Make a long stretch to the next rail, just below Rusty Bridges’ 4th bolt. Rock straight up onto the slab, or continue right to the arête. At this point, purists can place finger-sized gear in the flake system to the left; others can just clip the fat bolts on Rusty Bridges.

Protection

5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor shared with Rusty Bridges and AAA. This line appears to have been intended as a mixed line (with gear used above the last bolt). It is now possible to clip the bolts on Rusty Bridges at the end.

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