Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||133 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||sean peters on Feb 13, 2016|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
DescriptionThe guidebook (Phoenix Rock) states that this route was waiting for its first free ascent and that there are no hangers in place. Put up in 1971 one has to wonder if it ever happened? On our quest to climb most of the listed routes in the guidebook we had our chance to see what we could do in a mere 50 feet. We ended up getting the ascent clean and true to the book, no hangers were in place!
A semi-tough start on finicky thin gear up to a horn and the hanger less bolt. Easier climbing leads to the physical crux and again with a bolt less face move (use a wire nut to hitch the bolt head). Figure out the tricky moves that lead to the nice summit.
The difficult face move felt like a hard 5.10 to 5.11. Good luck.