Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Iceberg

Icicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 R
Snake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tinkerbell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Withered Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: L. Treiber, B. Grubbs, J.Biggs
Page Views: 200 total, 9/month
Shared By: sean peters on Feb 13, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

A fun route that seems a little harder than 5.5. A difficult start leads up to a tight chimney that you get to thrutch your way up. Good gear the entire way. It is probably wise to stop and belay after the chimney. Do a short and exposed traverse out right passing an old, rusty bong to another exposed crest of rock that will take you to the summit. A final airy step across that is protected by a bolt leads to the true highpoint.
This route felt harder than its neighbor Tinkerbell which is rated 5.7.

Location

You can find this route on the west side of the formation and near the northern end. The chimney will be obvious. We used two ropes to rappel off the summit but I believe one rope (we used short 60 meters...) would be fine--a 70 meter would be no problem.

Protection

Nuts and cams from finger to #5. One bong and one bolt. Three bolts on the summit to rappel off the formation.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.5 PG13
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.5 PG13
P2 offers zero options for protection; if you botch the 5.5 face traverse (beware the hollow flakes!) or the class-4 ridge-hump above that, you'll be facing a huge pendulum-swing into a healthy saguaro. Sep 14, 2016