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Routes in The Iceberg

Icicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 R
Snake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tinkerbell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Withered Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D. Lovejoy, Prescott College students
Page Views: 165 total · 7/month
Shared By: sean peters on Feb 13, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

This is probably the best route on the formation. Nice rock and good protection are highlights on this route. A crux move around a bulge about midway up the first pitch, the leader can decide which crack offers the best protection--chose wisely. Either stop at the obvious ledge with a nice palo verde tree or continue upward progress (scrappy rock) and join the route The Snake to finish on the summit. If you have already been to the summit it makes sense to rappel of the palo verde tree back to your packs.

Location

The start of the route is few feet right of The Snake. It is clearly defined by the two parallel cracks that lead to the palo verde ledge. You can rappel of the sturdy and safe palo verde or off the summit via bolts.

Protection

Nuts and cams to #5. No fixed gear unless you continue to the summit.

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