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Routes in Lucy

Red Lung T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jeff Snyder, Zach Harrison
Page Views: 1,112 total · 37/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Jan 21, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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3 Opinions

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Description

Red Lung is a modern style ‘adventure’ sport route named after the effects of the time honored tradition of huffing sand. This mostly bolted line features amazing features to the cool micro summit of Lucy. Vertical cragging at its finest, wonderful setting.

Pitch 1 Angle up and right via easy runout terrain to rightward ramp and a bolt. Romp to rap station past ghetto Vegas rock. 5.7R 100 feet.

Pitch 2 Move belay right 30 feet. Belay takes micro nuts, mini cam or spirit belay. Boulder crack moves to baggy stance. Drift fun face moves past bolts up awesome holds to the odd seam feature and a classic belay flop. 5.11 80 feet.

Pitch 3 Bush waltz to higher ledge. Burl out cartoon holds past 4 bolts on the 'World Cup Arete', fist pump optional. Alpine piller ramble to Mace wannabe lean across. Munch high quality popcorn to the top. Awesome summit! 5.11+ 70 feet.

Location

Start at the notch between Slingshot Rock and the Camels Head. Rap route. Angle back to notch on last rappel, watch your ends, 100 feet!

Protection

Rack 1X BD#1C3-#1C4 . 9 draws and runners. 70m rope is best for the last rap.

Photos

Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
 
Zach Harrison   Flagstaff
 
This pitch does go on gear, but its pretty funky. Crux is definitely placing all the wacky gear. After pulling a piece on the FA I hit a ledge, and subsequently started placing some bolts on lead. After cleaning all the loose shit off and TR many times, I decided to see what it was like without any bolts, A fall from low on the pitch has guaranteed ledge encounter... While a strong climber could onsight this, lets just not even enter a discussion on chopping. However you do it, its fun climbing! Dec 5, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.11
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.11
Chop this shit!!! Don't forget the anchors too.

vimeo.com/195995254 Dec 16, 2016

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