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Routes in Camel's Head

Frosted Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand of Sceiron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Marhofer/D. Suess
Page Views: 367 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Z on May 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

P1 - Meander up 40' of unprotected slab. A few feet below the limestone band is a 5.8 friction move. Very exciting! Top out the band and walk a few feet left. Continue up another slab reaching a drilled angle. Head straight up above the angle (5.10+) and build a belay off of small cams before the chimney. ~125ft (5.10+R)

P2 - Climb an awesome squeeze chimney to varied crack climbing in the corner until you reach an obvious ledge. Walk a few feet left and marvel at the beautiful ring lock/thin hands splitter above. Build a belay off of small cams. ~125ft (5.9+)

P3 - Climb the clean splitter to a hands overhang on great rock. Follow the crack which widens to fists through some sandy sections. There is a loose block in the crack. I tried to trundle it but it seems to be in there pretty good. After the loose block climb stellar wide hands and hands out another overhang. Once you are on the ledge, traverse left and take the path of least resistance to the top! ~100ft (5.10)

Location

This route begins on the South side of the Camel's Head.

Approach - Park at the trailhead on Schnebly Hill just before it turns to dirt. Walk back down the road (East) until a trail takes off on your left (South). Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. Scramble up the major slick rock drainage between the Camel's Head and Snoopy Rock. Once you pass through the 2 formations look up and to your left to find the route.

Descent - From the top of the route. Down climb into the notch and traverse the Camels Head on the East side. Walk on the ridge until you see anchors on the West side. I brought (1) 60m rope and made it to the ground in 2 rappels. Rap 1 was to a massive ledge 100ft. Rap 2 was off of a tree 100ft. The webbing/cord on the anchor and the tree are new as of May 2014. Use your own judgment as to whether or not you want to replace the tat.

Apparently you can also rappel Frosted Flakes with 2 ropes on the East side but I did not go that way.

Protection

(1) .0 C3 - .4
(2) .5 - #4
(1) #5
(1) 60m rope

Photos

Zach Harrison
  5.10+ R
Zach Harrison  
  5.10+ R
Lucy is the hilarious thimble shaped summit slightly East of the Camels Head. Red Lung is the route up to the summit of Lucy. It is here in the Mountainspray. May 23, 2016
Ryan Z
 
Ryan Z  
 
^ Thank you for the input Zach! What is Lucy and "Red Lung?" May 19, 2016
Zach Harrison
  5.10+ R
Zach Harrison  
  5.10+ R
It would be possible to rap the route Red Lung, from the micro summit of Lucy, with a single 70m in three rappels. All stations are bolts with chains, and would put you at the notch of Slingshot Rock. This would make the hike back to your pack shorter, with several bonus pitch options. Feb 8, 2016