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Routes in Camel's Head

Frosted Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hand of Sceiron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Martin, Bruce Edwards, 1987
Page Views: 397 total, 6/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Dec 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Hand of Sceiron climbs a sweet left leaning crack/chimney system that is obvious from uptown Sedona. Has a more obscure, old school feeling. The rock quality varies, but is mostly good.
Originally, the first pitch involved some aid right before the belay, but now there is a variation to pitch 1 that goes free.
The original pitch 1 climbs a wide low angle crack to a seam and belays just left of a roof 5.7 A1.
We started to the left of the original in a crack and traversed right under stepped roofs to a crack in the limestone and a boulder problem above a bolt to the belay ledge, 5.10+, 140 feet.
The second pitch starts with sweet fingers, then angles left and becomes a shallow chimney then a hand and offwidth crack, 5.10, 170 feet.
Pitch three climbs up and left, until you can unrope and walk left, 5.9, 60 feet.

Location

Hand of Sceiron is on the NW side of Camel's Head. It is obvious from uptown Sedona as a left trending crack system.
To get down from the top walk East and you can climb the mini summit of Lucy then rap bolted stations with a single 70m. Alternatively you can pass through the notch and rap down Frosted Flakes on the south side of the formation. This requires two ropes and has bolted rap stations. Both options require hiking back to the N side, but it only takes a few minutes.

Protection

Standard trad rack with nuts, double TCU's and cams to #4. Free variation pitch 1 has a protection bolt at the crux, tested on the lead! Traversing under the roofs has widely spaced pro. No bolts at the belays. The original pitch 1 has an anchor with old webbing visible from the ground.

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