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Early Access
Routes in Medusa
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Gorgon, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lower Medusa East Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Turn to Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Medusa East Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9564, -105.2856 |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Sonia Buckley, Nov. 2015 |
| Page Views: | 835 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: The Upper Crag of Medusa is subject to the Seasonal Cliff-chicken closure, apparently as part of the Sphinx closure(?).
Details
Although not formally named and closed, a closure sign now rests in the notch between upper and lower Medusa. Lower Medusa lies below this closure. The dates are as per the Falcon Closure
Description
Turn to Stone is a moderate climb with a few bulges for cruxes. Good protection is available most of the way if it is sought out by a skilled leader.
This climb goes up and right diagonally through a crack system to the top of the rock on the South side of upper Medusa (see the attached photo).
To descend, continue to the summit and off the back (scramble, or do a second pitch).
Location
Midway up the South face of upper Medusa, a long roof guards each the bottom and the top, 10' and 90' off of the ground, respectively. The bottom roof is bypassed via a slot on the right. The upper roof is in 3 sections, with a crack system separating the middle section from the left or right. Turn To Stone ascends the cracks in the middle section.
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