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Routes in Ramsay's Pinnacle

Bloody Shin T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Peace TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burt's Beta TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly McQueen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cut-Rate Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Monochrome T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nobleese Oblige T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pit Start T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pit Stop TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramsay's Ramp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramsay's Ride T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rube Goldberg T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleestak T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super VGA T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: near Swartling & Mayer p.164, route 17
Page Views: 79 total, 3/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Nov 2, 2015
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Start in the center of the face, and contrive a way to stay centered.

Swartling & Mayer suggest there is a 5.7 here ... maybe if you start on the left-hand side?

Location

As you come down the access gully, and exit the "canyon", the first wall on your left. It faces out.

The top-out is about 15-20 feet off the main East Bluff trail.

Protection

none.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
This climb can be lead with good small to mid sized cams placed in each of the horizontals found at about 12-15 foot intervals along the route. The crux moves will have your gear below your feet but you are shooting for nice sizable and positive holds above it with one final horizontal for pro. A really cool climb with long reaches between small in-cuts! Nov 12, 2015