All Locations > Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 05 -… > 5.1 - Ramsay's Pinnacle

Bloody Shin

Name: Bloody Shin
Rating: 2.2

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in 5.1 - Ramsay's Pinnacle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bloody Shin T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Broken Peace TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Burt's Beta TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Butterfly McQueen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cut-Rate Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Green Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Monochrome T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nobleese Oblige T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pit Start T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pit Stop TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ramsay's Ramp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ramsay's Ride T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Rube Goldberg T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sleestak T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Super VGA T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

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Type:	Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA:	Old School
Page Views:	256 total · 3/month
Shared By:	Doug Hemken on Apr 5, 2011
Admins:	Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Start in the dihedral below the roof, as shown in Nick's photo. According to Swartling and Mayer, exit the roof to the right ... but there is no gear out that way. Alternatively, step left onto the big shelf (easy, great gear) or follow the crack slightly left (not the greatest gear).

Cross easy ledges to the upper dihedral.

The upper dihedral is the crux, especially the last two moves.

The crux sews up with a couple of nuts and a 1/4" cam.