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Routes in Ramsay's Pinnacle

Bloody Shin T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Peace TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burt's Beta TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly McQueen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cut-Rate Arete TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Monochrome T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nobleese Oblige T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pit Start T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pit Stop TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramsay's Ramp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramsay's Ride T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rube Goldberg T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleestak T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super VGA T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 237 total, 3/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Apr 5, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Start in the dihedral below the roof, as shown in Nick's photo. According to Swartling and Mayer, exit the roof to the right ... but there is no gear out that way. Alternatively, step left onto the big shelf (easy, great gear) or follow the crack slightly left (not the greatest gear).

Cross easy ledges to the upper dihedral.

The upper dihedral is the crux, especially the last two moves.

The crux sews up with a couple of nuts and a 1/4" cam.

Location

Located directly below Ramsay's Pinnacle.

Protection

Trad.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
It's rated 5.7 in Swartling's guide as well. I'm not surprised by that....hee hee! Nov 2, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.8-
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.8-
I took over this page from someone else, and the 5.7 rating is theirs. I thought this felt like a 5.8, myself. Nov 2, 2015