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Routes in 1 - Pawn & Chessapeak

Aspen Gold S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bosch Survival Kit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Charlie's Checkers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Final Decision S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hip Checker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hour of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Marathon Match S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phalanx, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rack Enhancement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
System 3 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ten Star Whiners T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: AT, CK '05
Page Views: 251 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jon Ruland on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

A very solid and exciting route which maybe doesn't deserve 3 stars but certainly more than 2. This is the bolted route up the blank-looking face 15 feet left of System 3 Crack. Though "only 10-", this route has some spicy sections punctuated by delicate moves.

The first section of the route follows 4 bolts leading up to the ledge. There are good holds to the left of the bolt line; you can go straight up (I saw it done on toprope) but to do so would put the route in the 5.11 range. Be careful clipping the 4th bolt; there is a solid clipping hold but your feet are just smearing and if you fall here there's a good chance you'll deck.

After the 4th bolt you'll reach a ledge with a large block on the left side. Make some delicate moves past 2 more bolts then get ready for the psychological crux. It is definitely possible to hit the ledge or the block if you fall before clipping the next bolt, and the moves getting there may be the technical crux of the route.

Once you have clipped this bolt, pull over the bulge onto slightly runout but easy climbing to the anchors.

Location

15 feet left of the obvious right-angling System 3 Crack.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.10a
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.10a
My favorite on this wall for sure. Strong 2 stars. Feb 27, 2016
Justin Headley   Tucson
Make sure your belayer is attentive. There's a few places where if you fell with a lot of slack out (or maybe even with the appropriate amount of slack), you could hit a big ledge. May 6, 2018

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