Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1 - Pawn & Chessapeak

Aspen Gold S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bosch Survival Kit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Charlie's Checkers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Final Decision S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hip Checker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hour of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Marathon Match S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phalanx, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rack Enhancement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
System 3 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ten Star Whiners T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: AT, CK '05
Page Views: 207 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jon Ruland on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the very nice-looking, right-angling crack which is perhaps the most striking feature on the Chessapeak wall. As described in SQ3, this is a good first trad lead.

This route starts in a dihedral about 15 feet below where the crack actually begins. To the right you should see the lone bolt of Two For One; to the left you should see the two bolts of Hip Checker.

Climb the dihedral (protects well with nuts if you want but the climbing is easy) to a stance at the base of the crack. From here you might be able to jam a bit if you really want to but it's Mount Lemmon and jamming is optional and in this case awkward. You can pretty much plug gear at any point for the next 25 feet though the crack does widen briefly to about #6 range.

After the crack you'll reach a ledge below a bulge/roof which protects well. Pull through over the bulge/roof (crux?) and make your way on easy ground to the chain anchors this route shares with Two For One.

Location

The obvious right-angling crack between the bolts of Two For One on the right and Hip Checker on the left.

Protection

Single rack to #3. An inexperienced leader can double up on the mid-size cams and sew this one up.

Photos

0 Comments