All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Chessman Area > 1 - Pawn & Chessapeak
System 3 Crack
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Routes in 1 - Pawn & Chessapeak
|Aspen Gold S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Bosch Survival Kit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Charlie's Checkers T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Final Decision S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Hip Checker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hour of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Marathon Match S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Phalanx, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Rack Enhancement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|System 3 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ten Star Whiners T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Two For One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|FA:||AT, CK '05|
|Page Views:||207 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Jon Ruland on Oct 20, 2015|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is the very nice-looking, right-angling crack which is perhaps the most striking feature on the Chessapeak wall. As described in SQ3, this is a good first trad lead.
This route starts in a dihedral about 15 feet below where the crack actually begins. To the right you should see the lone bolt of Two For One; to the left you should see the two bolts of Hip Checker.
Climb the dihedral (protects well with nuts if you want but the climbing is easy) to a stance at the base of the crack. From here you might be able to jam a bit if you really want to but it's Mount Lemmon and jamming is optional and in this case awkward. You can pretty much plug gear at any point for the next 25 feet though the crack does widen briefly to about #6 range.
After the crack you'll reach a ledge below a bulge/roof which protects well. Pull through over the bulge/roof (crux?) and make your way on easy ground to the chain anchors this route shares with Two For One.