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Routes in Right of Wart

Drunken Sarahenity S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exponential Excavation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exponential Potential T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Finger My Slot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand of Doom S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Huberts Revenge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long for Rand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Walking Legend S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jesse Cirillo and David Repnik
Page Views: 3,421 total · 95/month
Shared By: J.Cirillo Cirillo on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Named after a local legend that against all odds is still on the sunny side of the grass. This is an AWESOME sport climb that follows a left leaning fault system all the way up the wall with killer views and great exposure.

-Pitch 1 5.8+ (65’) Shares the same first bolt as Finger My Slot as it traverses right to the sloping ledge. From the slopey ledge head straight up to the anchors.
-Pitch 2 5.10 (60’) Starts with a technical sequence before transitioning to juggey fun.
-Pitch 3 5.10 (115’) This is the pitch that just keeps on giving.

Location

30ft left of Exponential Excavation

Protection

12 draws

Photos

CaseyC Choiniere
seattle,wa
 
CaseyC Choiniere   seattle,wa
 
Great route with sustained climbing on mostly bomber rock. Second and Third pitch are steep and varied with excellent climbing. Unfortunately a hold blew on me just below the 10th(?) bolt sending me for a pretty good whipper and I busted my ankle. That section was already thin and is now even thinner. The hold was an obvious right hand side pull next to the small tree near the top. The grade probably remains intact though. Nice route. Recommended. Oct 22, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Dang, sorry to hear about the ankle Casey.

If another person were to blow off in the same spot, would the same fate await? Or can one place more gear? Oct 22, 2015
CaseyC Choiniere
seattle,wa
 
CaseyC Choiniere   seattle,wa
 
Jon, I think it was just circumstance that I was injured. I was pulling the last hard move before clipping the 10th bolt (if my memory serves me correctly) when a key hold blew. I think that normally a fall from that point would be clean, but because it was a hold blowing I was spun sideways in the air before hitting the wall 25+ feet below. I'm pretty sure the climbing just below this point is fairly easy so there is a longer space between these bolts then most bolts on the route.Perhaps 15 feet or so. Once you pass the easier climbing you have to pull one more tough move before clipping the bolt. A fall from here while clean, will probably send someone for quite a ride. As I learned the hard way.

There's nowhere to put natural protection in at that point. I'm not sure if this changes the grade of the climb or not, as I was simply climbing the most obvious line and the funnest looking move. Although I am fairly certain that this section is probably more difficult now. Either that or there's a nice incut now. The place where the hold came off is visible in the photo taken from the top of the 3rd pitch. Climbers right of the bush.

Probably wouldn't hurt for someone to head up and assess the pitch at some point. I'd be happy to do it but unfortunately I'm going to be outta commission for quite a while now.

Anyway, it's a great route and could use (and deserves) more traffic. Oct 23, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Casey, for the clarification.

Yes, exactly how one pops off is at least as important as the length and terrain of the fall. The two times I've been injured happened during unexpected falls.

At least it happened just as the weather turned colder and wetter. Time to hang out inside and write up one's memoirs...

I am psyched though to go try this route. Oct 23, 2015
djrepnik
  5.10
djrepnik  
  5.10
Cassey, sorry to hear about your accident. I certainly hope your recovery goes well. I had a similar event happen on Prusik Peak many years ago. My partner and I put alot of time into getting this route developed and made every intention of making it safe. Unfortunately loose rock typically exists to some degree on all routes even after hundreds ascents. Heck, I even pulled off a loose hold on Godzilla several years ago. This is especially true on newer routes. However, I believe that Walking Legend has very little loose rock on it due to the extensive amount of time cleaning we spent on it. If I recall the area you fell in, I believe there is a way around to the left of the hold which broke on you which will not affect the grade. I think that was the way I went when leading on the FA. As far as the distance between bolts in that section - previous precedent at Index is not to place a bolt in a 5.8 section of a 5.10 route where a fall will not result in serious injury or death. I certainly hope this does not discourage people from trying this amazing route. Nov 24, 2015
Ryan Hoover
  5.10
Ryan Hoover  
  5.10
Super fun route. I didn't see any issues with the bolting, it seems to dry off pretty quick, highly recomendded! Jan 11, 2016
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10
Great route! I ran into a few loose holds but found ways around them each time. 3rd pitch is sweet. May 7, 2016
Zacks
5.10+
Zacks  
5.10+
Fun route, surprisingly pumpy, I was expecting more blank slab, but its quite featured, not that the holds are always good mind you. I didn't encounter many/any loose holds, but the 3rd pitch is a little dirty and licheny, I brought a brush but wasn't able to use it on lead, the holds you need are mostly clean anyways. I wish the top bolts had chains instead of the metolius enviro rings, it made cleaning and pulling the rope difficult. We had a team of 3 with a 60 and a 70, I think think a double 70 makes it from the top of p3 to a block off left at the bottom you can scramble off of but the 60 was short so had to do another rap. the 60M was just past the half mark when leading the 3rd pitch so you need at least a 70 to rap this route from the top. couple of 2ft slings where helpfull to cut drag on p1. there are a few spots you could fit small nuts and maybe a cam or 2 up to .75 bd to reduce the run between bolts (would help the head game) There are no truely run out sections, just on the long side of normal. Jun 27, 2016
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
We climbed just the first two pitches and enjoyed them both.

For shorter climbers like myself (I'm 5'1"), getting to the first bolt feels bouldery if you aren't tall enough to reach the small horizontal slot from the good stance. On P2, a stiff quickdraw was handy for clipping the second bolt.

After the crux, the rest of P2 offered fun movement reminiscent of the style on Cunning Stunt -- but easier.

We did not encounter any overt looseness but a few of the flakes you want to pull on sound a little hollow when tapped, so I wouldn't be surprised if the climb sheds a few of these holds as it becomes more popular, which it is sure to be.

Hats off to those whose hard work and vision brought this one to life. It's a great addition to the crag. Jul 1, 2016
Super classic! Thanks Dave and Jesse! Jul 14, 2016
Jack Taylor
Issaquah, WA
 
Jack Taylor   Issaquah, WA
 
With 12 or 13 draws, half of them being standard 60cm slings, it is easy to combine p1 and p2 to make for two similar length pitches. Also 2 raps with a 70m return you to the ground! Jul 18, 2016
djrepnik
  5.10
djrepnik  
  5.10
^^^While yes it is possible to link the first two pitches. If you lower off with a 70m rope from the P2 anchors with the intention to TR, you will lower off the end of your rope due to the changes in direction. The distance from the top of P2 to the ground is 37ish meters. Best to tie knots if you're unsure. Jul 23, 2016
Jack Taylor
Issaquah, WA
 
Jack Taylor   Issaquah, WA
 
djrepnik, you are totally right. My advice was meant to be useful for descent without doing any TR laps on the way back down. Thanks a heap for making such an awesome moderate sport adventure! Jul 25, 2016
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
There is a loose fist-sized block hanging at the base of the short right-facing corner about 2/3 of the way up P2 (right after you stand up after completing the short hand traverse sequence). The block feels loose enough to come out with very little effort but its removal may destabilize the flakes in front of it and on top of it so tread carefully there. Aug 26, 2016
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
 
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
 
Perhaps I'm used to more generous bolting at Rumney since I've been out in New England for a few years, but a smattering of finger-size cams and nuts made me feel better on this route. I'm generally a confident 5.10 leader, so if this is at your limit bring a few pieces of gear--but get on it! It's great. May 6, 2017
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
  5.10
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
  5.10
p2 and third p3 felt about the same difficulty to me, messed up the beta just under the 2nd to last bolt on p3 and took a little whipper (blew my onsight :(...). Didn't expect the top to be as thought provoking as it was. The third pitch does keep giving... all the way to the anchors!

Rock on p3 looked good, nothing I pulled on seem loose. The flakes on p2 however weren't loose but weren't the most confidence inspiring.

beta spoiler?:

I felt the bolting was reasonable, placed a green mastercam halfway up on p3 in the handcrack, not really sure if it was necessary, but it was bomber. Linked p1 and p2 with a 70m and no long draws, would recommend some longer slings Jul 4, 2017
Climbed as a singe pitch with a 70. Only had 16 draws, so skipped some clips, but 25 would do. Second got to the first bolt before could be belayed. I realized too late and had a rope drag from the lower sections, so extend as many draws as possible.

We did 3 rappels.

Very pleasant route, great exposure, nice movement, exciting because of little traffic and no obvious chalk trail.

Somewhere there is an undercling thin flake that bends and creaks if pulled outwards, use different sequence.

We left 2 biners on top hangers, quick links would be great - someone planning to do should take as biners would likely be taken._ Jul 5, 2017
Vlad Alexandrov
Kirkland, WA
  5.10b/c
Vlad Alexandrov   Kirkland, WA
  5.10b/c
Great route!
If you're a 5.10 index climber, you will probably find the bolt spacing very reasonable. But I am not so I took a set of X4s and a red C4 and was happy to have them to supplement the bolts (placed 2-3 on 2nd and 3rd pitches).
I also found out the hard way that a 60m isn't enough for the top rappel - take a 70m. Jul 12, 2017
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Thank you for putting this up - really enjoyed it, especially P2.

Most mid-5.10 moves happen with a bolt at waist level or higher, which is great. But I am not sure the runouts are all within 5.8.. Was especially glad to have a 1" cam (0.5 camalot) and a 7-8mm nut for what felt like 5.9/10- moves 2-3m above the previous bolt (in several places).

The scariest part to me was P1 betweeen bolts 3 and 4 - it wasn't obvious that the 3rd bolt would protect one from the ledge below (and the moves felt a little 5.9-ish). Next time I'm stick-clipping the 4th bolt. Sep 7, 2017
Possibly the quickest access 3 pitch 5.10 climb at Index. Probably the ONLY 3 pitch 5.10 Sport Climb at Index. Definitely the best line on the Lower Lump.

Super fun climbing. Bring a few finger sized cams to add some confidence, even if you don't use them, knowing you CAN will help. Since it's Index, use a 70M rope. Sep 12, 2017
Megan McGrew  
 
Really fun climb.On the last pitch with the river, wind and curve of the pitch, communication gets really difficult. We descended in 2 rappels with a 70 meter rope. It's pertinent you find the middle marker precisely because you just make it on both rappels. This also means don't skip on placing knots at ends. Sep 14, 2017
Gabe O'Leary
Seattle, WA
 
Gabe O'Leary   Seattle, WA
 
One of the flakes early in pitch 3 felt a little flexy. Also a bit of lichen/dirt on the route but not enough to detract from the awesome climbing. This route deserves more traffic! On a sunny Saturday my climbing partner and I were the only people at this crag ALL day. Brought a couple of small pieces due to comments but never felt the need to place any of them (and I'm barely an "Index" 10 climber). Also if someone is willing to contribute, the top anchor could benefit from chains/quick links so people don't rap off the bolts. Jun 17, 2018
Devin Bishop
  5.10b/c
Devin Bishop  
  5.10b/c
Those “bolts” at the top of the third pitch are Metolius rap bolts. They are designed to rappel off. No chains needed. Jun 27, 2018

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