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Routes in Right of Wart

Drunken Sarahenity S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exponential Excavation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exponential Potential T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Finger My Slot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hand of Doom S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Huberts Revenge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long for Rand T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Walking Legend S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Stamati Anagnostou, Per Nesselquist
Page Views: 457 total · 19/month
Shared By: Stamati A on Apr 5, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details


This is a fun and short gear route on a wall populated with sport climbs. The climbing is straight-forward on jugs with a couple of exciting runouts.


Start in the middle of the cave feature, on the tip of a little boulder. Do a bouldery sequence and trend right to an indentation in the rock, heading straight up from there to the chains, which it shares with Drunken Saharenity and Hubert's Revenge.


Not yet clear, but scope out the route beforehand and see comments below.


- No Photos -
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Sounds intriguing and fun.

But I'm wondering if you could double-check or clarify two things:

1) The location and direction.

This is given as being the furthest right of all the routes on the wall. Yet it 'trends right' and nevertheless reaches the same anchor as routes to its left?

If instead it is the routes to the left that need more description (e.g., "traverse 50' right at the top"), let me know and I'll fix them.

2) Protection.

Can you add some suggestions? Nov 1, 2016
Stamati A
Bellingham, WA
Stamati A   Bellingham, WA
Hubert's Revenge and Drunken Sarahenity both trend right. Long for Rand does as well, but not as much and indeed finishes at the same anchor.

As for the gear, fingers to a .5 camalot I think. Nov 1, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks Stamati- Nov 2, 2016

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