CaseyC Choiniere seattle,wa

[Hide Comment] Great route with sustained climbing on mostly bomber rock. Second and Third pitch are steep and varied with excellent climbing. Unfortunately a hold blew on me just below the 10th(?) bolt sending me for a pretty good whipper and I busted my ankle. That section was already thin and is now even thinner. The hold was an obvious right hand side pull next to the small tree near the top. The grade probably remains intact though. Nice route. Recommended. Oct 22, 2015

Jon Nelson Redmond, WA

[Hide Comment] Dang, sorry to hear about the ankle Casey. If another person were to blow off in the same spot, would the same fate await? Or can one place more gear? Oct 22, 2015

CaseyC Choiniere seattle,wa

[Hide Comment] Jon, I think it was just circumstance that I was injured. I was pulling the last hard move before clipping the 10th bolt (if my memory serves me correctly) when a key hold blew. I think that normally a fall from that point would be clean, but because it was a hold blowing I was spun sideways in the air before hitting the wall 25+ feet below. I'm pretty sure the climbing just below this point is fairly easy so there is a longer space between these bolts then most bolts on the route.Perhaps 15 feet or so. Once you pass the easier climbing you have to pull one more tough move before clipping the bolt. A fall from here while clean, will probably send someone for quite a ride. As I learned the hard way. There's nowhere to put natural protection in at that point. I'm not sure if this changes the grade of the climb or not, as I was simply climbing the most obvious line and the funnest looking move. Although I am fairly certain that this section is probably more difficult now. Either that or there's a nice incut now. The place where the hold came off is visible in the photo taken from the top of the 3rd pitch. Climbers right of the bush. Probably wouldn't hurt for someone to head up and assess the pitch at some point. I'd be happy to do it but unfortunately I'm going to be outta commission for quite a while now. Anyway, it's a great route and could use (and deserves) more traffic. Oct 23, 2015

Jon Nelson Redmond, WA

[Hide Comment] Thanks Casey, for the clarification. Yes, exactly how one pops off is at least as important as the length and terrain of the fall. The two times I've been injured happened during unexpected falls. At least it happened just as the weather turned colder and wetter. Time to hang out inside and write up one's memoirs... I am psyched though to go try this route. Oct 23, 2015

djrepnik   5.10

[Hide Comment] Cassey, sorry to hear about your accident. I certainly hope your recovery goes well. I had a similar event happen on Prusik Peak many years ago. My partner and I put alot of time into getting this route developed and made every intention of making it safe. Unfortunately loose rock typically exists to some degree on all routes even after hundreds ascents. Heck, I even pulled off a loose hold on Godzilla several years ago. This is especially true on newer routes. However, I believe that Walking Legend has very little loose rock on it due to the extensive amount of time cleaning we spent on it. If I recall the area you fell in, I believe there is a way around to the left of the hold which broke on you which will not affect the grade. I think that was the way I went when leading on the FA. As far as the distance between bolts in that section - previous precedent at Index is not to place a bolt in a 5.8 section of a 5.10 route where a fall will not result in serious injury or death. I certainly hope this does not discourage people from trying this amazing route. Nov 24, 2015

Ryan Hoover Index, WA   5.10

[Hide Comment] Super fun route. I didn't see any issues with the bolting, it seems to dry off pretty quick, highly recomendded! Jan 11, 2016

Nate Redon Peshastin, WA   5.10

[Hide Comment] Great route! I ran into a few loose holds but found ways around them each time. 3rd pitch is sweet. May 7, 2016

Zacks 5.10+

[Hide Comment] Fun route, surprisingly pumpy, I was expecting more blank slab, but its quite featured, not that the holds are always good mind you. I didn't encounter many/any loose holds, but the 3rd pitch is a little dirty and licheny, I brought a brush but wasn't able to use it on lead, the holds you need are mostly clean anyways. I wish the top bolts had chains instead of the metolius enviro rings, it made cleaning and pulling the rope difficult. We had a team of 3 with a 60 and a 70, I think think a double 70 makes it from the top of p3 to a block off left at the bottom you can scramble off of but the 60 was short so had to do another rap. the 60M was just past the half mark when leading the 3rd pitch so you need at least a 70 to rap this route from the top. couple of 2ft slings where helpfull to cut drag on p1. there are a few spots you could fit small nuts and maybe a cam or 2 up to .75 bd to reduce the run between bolts (would help the head game) There are no truely run out sections, just on the long side of normal. Jun 27, 2016

Sherri Lewis Sequim, WA

[Hide Comment] We climbed just the first two pitches and enjoyed them both. For shorter climbers like myself (I'm 5'1"), getting to the first bolt feels bouldery if you aren't tall enough to reach the small horizontal slot from the good stance. On P2, a stiff quickdraw was handy for clipping the second bolt. After the crux, the rest of P2 offered fun movement reminiscent of the style on Cunning Stunt -- but easier. We did not encounter any overt looseness but a few of the flakes you want to pull on sound a little hollow when tapped, so I wouldn't be surprised if the climb sheds a few of these holds as it becomes more popular, which it is sure to be. Hats off to those whose hard work and vision brought this one to life. It's a great addition to the crag. Jul 1, 2016

Pat Sullivan

[Hide Comment] Super classic! Thanks Dave and Jesse! Jul 14, 2016

Jack Taylor Issaquah, WA

[Hide Comment] With 12 or 13 draws, half of them being standard 60cm slings, it is easy to combine p1 and p2 to make for two similar length pitches. Also 2 raps with a 70m return you to the ground! Jul 18, 2016

djrepnik   5.10

[Hide Comment] ^^^While yes it is possible to link the first two pitches. If you lower off with a 70m rope from the P2 anchors with the intention to TR, you will lower off the end of your rope due to the changes in direction. The distance from the top of P2 to the ground is 37ish meters. Best to tie knots if you're unsure. Jul 23, 2016

Sherri Lewis Sequim, WA

[Hide Comment] There is a loose fist-sized block hanging at the base of the short right-facing corner about 2/3 of the way up P2 (right after you stand up after completing the short hand traverse sequence). The block feels loose enough to come out with very little effort but its removal may destabilize the flakes in front of it and on top of it so tread carefully there. Aug 26, 2016

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow Fort Collins, CO / Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Perhaps I'm used to more generous bolting at Rumney since I've been out in New England for a few years, but a smattering of finger-size cams and nuts made me feel better on this route. I'm generally a confident 5.10 leader, so if this is at your limit bring a few pieces of gear--but get on it! It's great. May 6, 2017

Alan Zhan Seattle, WA   5.10

[Hide Comment] p2 and third p3 felt about the same difficulty to me, messed up the beta just under the 2nd to last bolt on p3 and took a little whipper (blew my onsight :(...). Didn't expect the top to be as thought provoking as it was. The third pitch does keep giving... all the way to the anchors! Rock on p3 looked good, nothing I pulled on seem loose. The flakes on p2 however weren't loose but weren't the most confidence inspiring. beta spoiler?: I felt the bolting was reasonable, placed a green mastercam halfway up on p3 in the handcrack, not really sure if it was necessary, but it was bomber. Linked p1 and p2 with a 70m and no long draws, would recommend some longer slings Jul 4, 2017

Clim Berdude

[Hide Comment] Climbed as a singe pitch with a 70. Only had 16 draws, so skipped some clips, but 25 would do. Second got to the first bolt before could be belayed. I realized too late and had a rope drag from the lower sections, so extend as many draws as possible. We did 3 rappels. Very pleasant route, great exposure, nice movement, exciting because of little traffic and no obvious chalk trail. Somewhere there is an undercling thin flake that bends and creaks if pulled outwards, use different sequence. We left 2 biners on top hangers, quick links would be great - someone planning to do should take as biners would likely be taken._ Jul 5, 2017

Vlad Alexandrov Woodinville, WA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Great route! If you're a 5.10 index climber, you will probably find the bolt spacing very reasonable. But I am not so I took a set of X4s and a red C4 and was happy to have them to supplement the bolts (placed 2-3 on 2nd and 3rd pitches). I also found out the hard way that a 60m isn't enough for the top rappel - take a 70m. Jul 12, 2017

Serge S Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Thank you for putting this up - really enjoyed it, especially P2. Most mid-5.10 moves happen with a bolt at waist level or higher, which is great. But I am not sure the runouts are all within 5.8.. Was especially glad to have a 1" cam (0.5 camalot) and a 7-8mm nut for what felt like 5.9/10- moves 2-3m above the previous bolt (in several places). The scariest part to me was P1 betweeen bolts 3 and 4 - it wasn't obvious that the 3rd bolt would protect one from the ledge below (and the moves felt a little 5.9-ish). Next time I'm stick-clipping the 4th bolt. Sep 7, 2017

Douglas Taylor

[Hide Comment] Possibly the quickest access 3 pitch 5.10 climb at Index. Probably the ONLY 3 pitch 5.10 Sport Climb at Index. Definitely the best line on the Lower Lump. Super fun climbing. Bring a few finger sized cams to add some confidence, even if you don't use them, knowing you CAN will help. Since it's Index, use a 70M rope. Sep 12, 2017

Megan McGrew

[Hide Comment] Really fun climb.On the last pitch with the river, wind and curve of the pitch, communication gets really difficult. We descended in 2 rappels with a 70 meter rope. It's pertinent you find the middle marker precisely because you just make it on both rappels. This also means don't skip on placing knots at ends. Sep 14, 2017

Gabe O'Leary Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] One of the flakes early in pitch 3 felt a little flexy. Also a bit of lichen/dirt on the route but not enough to detract from the awesome climbing. This route deserves more traffic! On a sunny Saturday my climbing partner and I were the only people at this crag ALL day. Brought a couple of small pieces due to comments but never felt the need to place any of them (and I'm barely an "Index" 10 climber). Also if someone is willing to contribute, the top anchor could benefit from chains/quick links so people don't rap off the bolts. Jun 17, 2018

Devin Bishop Granite Falls, WA   5.10c

[Hide Comment] Those “bolts” at the top of the third pitch are Metolius rap bolts. They are designed to rappel off. No chains needed. Jun 27, 2018

Alex Fischer Albuquerque, NM

[Hide Comment] Pitch 3 really does keep on giving-one of the best sport climbing pitches I've ever done! Don't worry about reports of this climb being runout. I am very much not solid at Index 5.10 (I barely onsighted this by the skin of my teeth) and I felt fine on the last 2 pitches. The only part that felt mildly spicy was the first 2 bolts of the first pitch but that's not too bad. The guidebook gives this 5.10c, although it felt easier to me than Racer X 5.10b. But that could just be because I suck at slab. Aug 15, 2019

Monica McKeown Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] WARNING: the final jug flake on the 3rd pitch is very lose. It is on the top belay ledge and is about 3 feet long. We were considering taking it off the route but did not have equipment to do so safely. I hope else has the means to remove it! Aug 26, 2019

Michal Index WA

[Hide Comment] Me and Sara Price took care of the loose block on Pitch 3 it's safe and solid now. Sep 8, 2019

Pat Cheng Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] Can confirm the crux move of the entire route is missing its bolt. Thought it was someone's cruel joke at first hahaha. Better be solid at 10+! Ah runouts... the spice of life. My personal opinion, this is the best multipitch sport route in the PNW, over Wherever I May Roam, Monkey Space, or any of the wandery hike-climbs at Mazama. And no lines because everyone is at LTW. Do yourself a favor and experience this route. Moves and pacing are reminiscent of Potrero Chico limestone but on quality granite. I'm still tingling 2 days later. @Douglas Taylor: best SPORT route. DO THIS ROUTE! Jun 22, 2021

Douglas Taylor

[Hide Comment] Patrick Cheng, bummer about the missing bolt (and really weird). If you think this is the best multipitch route in the PNW... I'd counter that it isn't even the best multipitch route at the Lower Lump. I'd place it #3 at the LL with Ride the Lightning #1 and 36V as #2. But hey... as long as we're all having fun. Jun 22, 2021

Rio H Seattle, WA   5.10b

[Hide Comment] Ditto the comment saying it p3 felt easier than cunning stunt (5.10c). A lot of the climbing was trying to find good foot holds. Regarding the missing bolt, I was able to place a 0.75 cam and extend it from a undercling climber's left. Would have lessened the fall but still a little farther than I would like. We rapped from the top of p3 to the top of p2, then from p2 to the ground although it will be a rope stretcher. Jun 24, 2021

Erik Neumann

[Hide Comment] Today, July 26, 2021, I replaced the missing hanger on the bolt at the p3 crux. I also tightened 8 or 10 other bolts on the route, including a couple of anchor bolts. Several of those were spinning or the nuts were easily removed by hand. I applied some blue Permatex Threadlocker to all of the loose bolts. Great route! Having a few small cams up to 1.0 or 0.75 can be nice to have in places. Jul 26, 2021

Perry Gowdy Salt Lake City, UT   5.10

[Hide Comment] Top of P3 has no chains for rappel, so we had to rap off the bolts. We’ll try to haul some chains up next time we do it. Absolutely phenomenal climb. Didn’t feel like any extra pro was necessary. It all felt appropriately bolted. Keep on it for the 3rd pitch, the moves below the anchor are very cool and insecure. Jun 26, 2022

K Go Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] We had a single 80m rope and a party of 3 and were able to climb in caterpillar with one person tied in the middle for all the pitches. To avoid crowding at the P2 belay since another party was climbing up below us, I was able to lower both my partners one at a time from the P3 anchor all the way to the ground and then just do the 2 raps by myself. Ever since my crag 70m rope retired, I've found an 80 to be really handy sometimes at Index. Aug 8, 2022

Sage Bedell Seattle, WA   5.10d

[Hide Comment] I enjoyed having a couple cams to supplement in the .3-.75 range but most people would be fine without them. Be sure to climb all three pitches! Sep 6, 2022

Ryan Minton Leavenworth, WA

[Hide Comment] Excellent route. P3 is especially memorable...engaging moves with good stances in between the harder sections. I brought a single rack to BD #1 and placed only 2 or 3 pieces in total on the entire route. No nuts needed. This made the pro spacing very comfortable. When I go back to this route I will likely just bring draws. 80m rope (BD) allowed us to rap from top of P2 to the ground, both ends were about a foot off the ground. Nov 15, 2022

Mike Gagnier Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Stellar climb! No need for gear on P1 and P2 - on P3 I placed a .4, .75 , a small gold offset nut and a number 1. The .4 isn’t really necessary but can be used to aid through what I thought was the crux of the route. May 20, 2023

Marc Micatka Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] As of 7/2/2023 there are no chains at the top of pitch 3 - just a single steel biner. When we went up, there was no hardware but hangers at pitch 3 but there was what appeared to be a bail biner near the middle of pitch 3 so we moved it to rap off of. Could definitely use some new hardware if anyone is heading up soon! Jul 2, 2023

Tyler Stockdale Joshua Tree

[Hide Comment] Hi Marc! The hangers at the top of this route are Metolius Rappel Hangers. They are designed to be threaded with the rope and rappelled on. Chains are not needed until the hangers get more wear. They currently look in primo condition. The singular bail link up there is now in my horde of bootied quicklinks awaiting repurpose on another cliff. I appreciate you leaving it for me. Score! Jul 28, 2023

Daniel Chode Rider

[Hide Comment] they are designed that way but man does that design suck Jul 30, 2023

Matthew Radcliffe Sultan, WA

[Hide Comment] First climb on WL. Led pitch one and three. Followed on pitch 2. Pulled on a few draws on the third pitch to clip. Will need to climb it cleaner next time. Placed a single .2 cam but wished I didn’t bring any trad gear at all. This climb is well protected enough with just sport draws. You don’t even need to extend any with alpine draws. It’s tempting to link pitches one and two next time (don’t lower that way). Seemed notably easier than “Argentinosaurus” and slightly easier than “Billy’s corner” or “Sensation Station”. Harder or at least more sustained than “Tiny Dancer” or “Flying Salamanders Full”. 70 meter rope needed for the third pitch rappel. Aug 22, 2023

Ethan Wieczorek   5.10 PG13

[Hide Comment] 7/6/24: There's a massive wasp or hornet nest about 15 feet below the first anchor. You can see them flying around from the ground and they look angry. We ended up backing off instead of trying to climb through them Jul 6, 2024

Matt Holmes Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Great route with steep and fun climbing. The bolting felt reasonable overall. An 80m gets you to the ground from the top of P2. The wasp/hornet nest was not an issue now that it's winter, but apparently queens can survive winters to start new colonies in the spring. Jan 10, 2025