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Routes in Upper Wall

5 Minute Hero S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dam It S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drama Queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
High and Dry S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Light the Fuse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overflow S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Repo Man S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Resurrection S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seperation Anxiety S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sub Zero S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wander the West S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Whirlpool S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Brad Johnson and John Robinson
Page Views: 197 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Robinson on Oct 1, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Flood Danger Details
Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Down low you will climb through a right facing dihedral to tricky technical crux moves and continue to the top.

Location

Second route from the top end of the gorge on the right side as you go upstream. To access the anchors at the bottom of this climb you must either scramble up a 4th class section or lead it with one bolt. In either case locate the bolt approx 20' up the wall and climb past this bolt and traverse left to the anchors . The anchors are approximately 40' above the stream bed.

Protection

Approximately 12 bolts with Mussey's on top

Photos

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Mike Thielvoldt
Martinez, CA
 
Mike Thielvoldt   Martinez, CA
 
The 7th? bolt on the roof just above the right-facing quartzite corner (after the traverse left) is missing its hanger. This is a crucial bolt imo, because it's the first pro after a 10-ish-foot traverse left, it is fairly high (vertically) above the previous bolt, the next bolt (with a hanger) is a fair bit further, the terrain below is just less than vertical, and the climbing is steep here and just as strenuous as anywhere else on the route. Additonally, the rock here (the whole quartzite corner) looks quite ready to break off to me. I think a cam placed below the hangerless bolt might very well lever the rock off the wall if one were to fall on it. Regarding putting a wire on the hangerless bolt: the rope tends to pull outward on the hangerless bolt as you climb past, so if you're going to do what I did, put a long draw on that one. If you do place a cam, chose your crack carefully. You'll need finger-sized cams. (.3-.5)
Given the lacking hangar, I'd presently suggest an "R" rating.
Super-fun movement, consistent difficulty with good rests interspersed. Next time I'm here, I'll bring a hanger and nut. Aug 8, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
 
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
 
Thanks Mike for the update. It will probably be a while before I can get back up there so if someone else replaces the hanger it would be great. Post here if you do. Mike: Does the bolt appear to be in good shape? Aug 8, 2018

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