The Gorge Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.331, -120.645 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Justin Johnsen on May 23, 2014|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionWARNING (this only applies to the Gorge Section and not the Benches section)! As the sign posted at the parking lot reminds you, this area is subject to sudden and severe flooding, especially in run off times (spring and winter). Most of the climbing routes in the gorge are in the potential flooding areas, as walls of the gorge sit below several LARGE floodgates from lake Spaulding. These gates may open at any time, and as the sign in the parking area states, there may or may not be warning. Being in the gorge when the gates open would probably mean death, and being in the other climbing areas will mean that your exit is blocked until flood waters reside. Read all posted signs in the parking area, and also beware that these may not be updated.
Mike Carville's 1999 Guide to "The Gorge" was the last published information, but many of the routes changed due to flooding in 1997. In 2010 to 2012 Carville and friends restored many of the original lines and added many more but in the winter of 2013 another flood made much of the gorge deeper, so the first bolts on many of the climbs were very high. That problem was fixed in the summer of 2013 and the area is again ready for some great climbing. Very little specific route info is available on Mountain Project but Josh Horniak is getting a new guide out that will rectify that problem in the spring of 2014.
The Gorge and the Wishing Well are located below the outlet gates of Spaulding Reservoir and in the spring and winter can be subject to flooding if the gates are opened or if water is going over the gates. Once the lake level is below the bottom of the gates, which usually occurs in the spring, there is no possibility of flooding. It is easy to determine the level of the lake by hiking to the gates and looking. This potential flooding only refers to the Gorge and the Wishing Well.
This page is being recycled from Aron Quiter's original main page describing the Emeralds.
Flood Danger Details
WARNING! As the sign posted at the parking lot reminds you, this area is subject to sudden and severe flooding, especially in run off times (spring and winter). Most of the climbing routes in the gorge are in the potential flooding areas, as walls of the gorge sit below several LARGE floodgates from Lake Spaulding. These gates may open at any time, and as the sign in the parking area states, there may or may not be warning. Being in the gorge when the gates open would probably mean death, and being in the other climbing areas will mean that your exit is blocked until flood waters reside. Read all posted signs in the parking area, and also beware that these may not be updated.
No overnight camping on PG&E property Details
Noticed several tents while walking into the emeralds climbing area this last weekend ( 5/20/17 ). PG&E (Pacific Gas and Electric) has posted several signs at the gate and other areas that state camping is NOT allowed. Please respect this so that access does not become an issue! Thanks in advance, Colby W.
Getting ThereSee the Emeralds Getting There section for driving directions.
For an overview map of walking directions with GPS coordinates, go to "The Emeralds" Main page and see John Robinson's photo: Guide to the Emeralds, page 1
From the dirt parking lots at the South Yuba River bridge, follow the road upstream on the south (right-hand) bank of the river. You will come to a cairn on the right of the road follow this trail and it will go uphill to the Benches areas. When you get to Kudos continue up the same main approach trail. When you get just below Fast Food Wall (1 min past Kudos) turn left and go uphill to the top of the ridge. After about 10 min you will come to a fork, go left on the trail cut thru the Manzanita. Continue on this "trail" with cairns until you start going steep downhill. Scramble down some scree and you're dead smack in the middle of the gorge. Lower gorge is to your left and upper gorge is to your right toward the dam. (It should take you about 40 min to go from the trailhead to the Gorge) The "wishing well" doesn't really exist any more because the boulders that formed the pools have been swept downstream during the release of flood waters.
Note: There are sandy slopes above the gorge and when it's windy or after a rain large rocks have been known to pinball down into the gorge. It seems the large boulder in the middle of the upper gorge is ground zero. We also found a rattlesnake by this boulder last year.
Directions contributed by Aron Quiter and Kelley Gilleran.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season