Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 390 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ed Palen, Laurie Daniels|
|Page Views:||869 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Abrams on Sep 30, 2015|
DescriptionNice chimney route in the Avalanche Lake area. Stellar scenery and good views of the California Flake across the lake.
P1 - 5.6: From the amphitheater formed by a large cave, climb up the right wall of the cave aiming for an obvious off-width that widens to a chimney. At the top of the chimney, traverse left onto a tree-covered ledge with fixed rap webbing on its left side. You can easily see the P2 chimney from this ledge. Belay here.
P2 - 5.8: Walk into the base of the enormous chimney. Begin stemming your way up the chimney to a bolt. Continue up the narrowing chimney and pass a large chockstone on its left side. Continue through the chimney that narrows almost to a squeeze, then exit the chimney onto the top of an enormous flake that forms the left side of the chimney. Continue up easier ground to the top of the flake and a 2-bolt anchor on the main wall.
(disclaimer: we stopped here and rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70m rope. You can get to the ground in 2 rappels with a single 70m rope from the top of P2)
P3 description is included for completeness. P3 is described as being dirty and painful in the guidebook.
P3 - 5.9: From the top of the enormous flake, traverse left, then step onto the main wall. Traverse left 20' to the base of a crack. Climb the crack, then head right to a tree island.