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Routes in Avalanche Mountain

Chalk-Up Matilda T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheer Failure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Something Wicked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 160 ft
FA: Ed Palen & Paul Brown Nov 1994
Page Views: 249 total, 14/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

For my money..pretty close to a 4-star route.

Climb up the left side of the corner (photos) then step out left and up the beautiful crack. (photos)
Rap with 2 ropes from the fixed anchor on the cedar tree.

Photos of an ascent in Sept 2005

HISTORY- Sheila and I were in with Ed Palen in the early fall of 1994 (or was it '93 ?). Ed was cleaning the big inside corner that would become P1 of "3D". Sheila and I climbed up the big, vegetated corner/chimney system (about 5.5 ?) to the left of what would become "Chalk-Up". The beautiful crack of "Chalk-Up" beckoned, BUT the top of the crack, where it opened to become sort of a "V" was just packed and packed with dead, rotting leaves. [photo 8] I could just see successfully getting up the crack and then "buying the farm" on slippery leaves, or the mud beneath.
Ed cleaned the route and snagged the FA.

Location

As the hiking trail from ADK lodge/Marcy Dam drops down to the lake, look for a climber's path up to the right.
The climb starts in, and is just left of the big, ugly corner/chimney (FA R Hall & S Matz 1993 or 94, somehow I don't think anyone wants to repeat it!

Protection

Std rack - medium cams and finger-sized nuts work well.

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