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Early Access
Routes in Guard House
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Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheech and Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eric Couldn't Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Martial Law T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.20298, -105.31426 |
| FA: | Jeff Dillon, Ryan Sommers, August 2015 |
| Page Views: | 914 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Dillon on Aug 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This route takes the line of least resistance and most shrubbery on the left side of Guard House Rock.
P1. Climb up easy ground to a large, horizontal crack. Traverse the crack right to gain a ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to gain a thin, left-slanting seam. Climb the seam to a ledge with a steep, left-slanting fist crack. Climb the crack to another ledge and set a belay.
P2. Continue up a left-slanting, wide crack to a ledge. Climb up nice flakes in an obtuse corner to another ledge. Traverse right on the ledge, climb a short face to another ledge, and set a belay.
P3. Climb up easy ground to a large ledge. Continue up a wide crack on the right, east-facing wall to the top.
Descent: scramble down the chimney from the southwest corner of the pinnacle to a small ledge with a large chockstone. Rappel from fixed slings 35m to a rock ledge, and scramble north back to the river. A 70m rope is helpful.
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