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Routes in Guard House

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheech and Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eric Couldn't Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: some idiots (or maybe just Simon & me)
Page Views: 79 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 19, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

"To go where no idiot has gone before."

Well, hell, climbers are not the sharpest tools in the shed, but they do have fun. It's amazing how much rock is out there and just begging to be climbed. Yeah, this may have been climbed before, but the rock is not in Hubbel's guide, Gillett's isn't out yet, and it isn't in the database, so here goes. This name/description refers to the 2nd of 3 pitches of the line. Please don't get mad if this is your FA.

This route is located just upstream & across the river from Scout Rock & just downstream Guardian Rock (listed in Hubbel's guide). It is on a buttress just above the S. St. Vrain. It follows a natural line at a moderate grade. It does face NW, so, sunny is not a typical adjective for the route. Think a bit licheny. Bring tape.

Find a RFD after crossing the river and bushwhacking to the R side of the rock. P1. Ascend this reasonable corner for about 60 feet to a good ledge & belay, 5.8. (This has been climbed before & may be called "Auld Lang Syne.")

This is the described pitch: P2. Continue up a groove to the R of the big RFD (previously climbed) with pinches to start. It becomes a chimney about 40 ft up. Crux of this pitch involves a bit of squeezing & not leaving gear racked behind you in the chimney part. From there, the terrain eases in difficulty trending R with non-sustained face climbing. The end of this pitch may join the finish for the big RFD (previously climbed). Continue to about 190ft up after crossing a separation in the wall. 5.7.

P3. Go up a short lieback with double cracks to an easy but exposed traverse off the R side of the crag for 150 ft or so to the walk off. Aim for a decent-sized tree. This pitch has been climbed previously.

Descend a sloping gully to the R of the climb.

Protection

Rack to #4 Camalot. Hexes #9, 10, and 11 can be useful. A #4.5 Camalot was a bonus but is not required.

Photos

Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Pretty fun climb. This was my first multi-pitch trad lead. It would be a lot better if it was cleaned up a little. Mar 16, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Dang, Eric, silly how those little adult things, like jobs, get in the way of having a bit o' fun. Jan 21, 2005