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Routes in Guard House

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheech and Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eric Couldn't Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 168 total, 8/month
Shared By: JFM on Apr 12, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

As described in the Gillett guide, this is a two-pitch affair.

P1 ascends a grungy off-fingers right-facing dihedral adorned with two bushes (about 50 feet?) to a nice, wide ledge. Traverse the ledge leftward (passing the Eric Couldn't Come crack), and belay at the next right-facing dihedral.

P2 follows the corner - with short jaunts to the face - to an OW/fists bulge that must be overcome (crux) then continues up. There are more bushes to drag yourself through! Ramps and easy mantles lead to a belay ledge still shy of the local summit.

Location

Cross the river in the side, shallow area just past the National Forest sign (barely upstream from the log home). Bushwhack up a narrow "path" to the base of the route. Belay from a small platform.

To descend, scramble south up a wide fin, step across to the left, and then climb down a notch to a large wedged chockstone. There may or may not be webbing in situ, so be prepared to leave some cord and a rap ring. A 70m will get you to the ground, then hike down a gully that is accessed by a large pine-tree - this will get you back to the riverbank.

It appears a walk-off is possible to the south, but we did not explore this option.

Protection

A single rack from BD #0.3 to 4 with a set of stoppers should suffice. Multiples in the #0.75 to 3 range may add comfort. Single-length slings are useful. Bring some cord and a rap ring for the rap-station.

Photos

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