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Routes in Vallée Blanche Basin

Arête des Bosses / Goûter Route PG13
Contamine Grisolle AI2 M2
Cosmiques Arête 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4
Goulotte Chéré AI4
Kuffner Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI2
Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route
Perroux-Profit Goulotte AI4 M5
Tour Ronde North Face AI2-3 Steep Snow
Vent du Dragon AI4 M5+
Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 650 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Philippe Collet and Thomas Robisco, 6 May 2003
Page Views: 342 total, 12/month
Shared By: Rui Ferreira on Jul 31, 2015
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

A modern classic that is not in most guidebooks, it is a good introduction to mixed climbing and fiddling with rock gear for protection but never too serious or difficult. It shares the same start as Perroux-Profit Goulotte route. P1 is a 60m snow and ice gully with some easy mixed. Belay on the left side underneath a slanting corner with one fixed pin as part of the belay. P2 30m of thin ice or no ice up a slating corner, rock gear mandatory depending on the ice, belay underneath a narrow iced gully. P3 55m is the crux pitch, trend leftwards on a 75 degree ice gully, passing underneath a small roof, which is exited left (M5 crux). Above go around a boulder on the left side (M4 to 5). Belay above on the left side, using 0.4 and 0.5 Camalots (no fixed gear). P4 50m continue up the dihedral and exit left underneath another overhang (M4) it is also possible to go straight up the chimney before reaching the overhang. Exit onto the arete des Cosmiques by doing a short section of easy rock. About 1 hour to approach via rappels, 3 hours to climb and another hour to exit via the arete des Cosmiques route

Location

located on the NW face of the Cosmiques Ridge, the best way to access it is by rappel from the span bridge of the Aiguille du Midi station (which is why it is listed on the Vallee Blanche area). As you exit on to the bridge from the telepherique locate the rappel station on the right side of the bridge. Step over the fence and do a 40m free hanging rappel to a station on the rocks below. Do four more 60m rappels with the last two on the opposite side (climber's right side of the couloir).

Protection

Small rack of short screws, nuts and Camalots 0.4 to 2. Recommended two 60m ropes

Photos

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