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Routes in The Jobsite

Air China Flight 924 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Batman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coyote Certified S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ditchdigger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drivers Test S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flashing the Eave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fluffer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honey Dipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jungle Rot Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Learners Permit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
May I Take Your Order Please? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mucker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paper Route, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roughneck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Run for Cover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screen Printer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snatch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stable Boy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Superman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telemarketer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 124 total, 4/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 21, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Got endurance?

Batman is a juggy, severely-overhanging pump fest.

Scramble up the dark tillite to a slightly columnar section with a number of juggy protrusions on the right. Clip the first two bolts (in the tillite) long and get on top of the last of the tillite.

The third bolt is in the lighter quartzite, and it's here that the business starts. Gently overhanging for the next two bolts, and then it gets steep. Move fast on big holds. After several bolts of steepness the angle eases again to gently overhanging, although the pump at this point may be strong.

Note that the anchors were moved higher after the was completed; the route continues up for five more bolts past the illustrated anchor position.

Cleaning this thing top-down is strenuous; see if you can sucker someone into toproping it.

Length


If you belay from the base of the route a 60m will probably work (although I've not tried it), but you can't see the climber above the roof and therefore many people belay down the hill before the tillite and in that case a 70m is required.

Protection

15 bolts plus anchors (1 Mussy hook and 1 ring). Shares the first four bolts with Superman which branches left.

Because it's so overhanging, and there are lots of bolts, it helps to use two foot slings on the first bolts and longish draws on the rest.

Photos

This route is fantastic! Would be 4 stars but it was very dirty when I climbed it. Took me a few tries to get it clean. I am sure that later in the season as it gets more traffic a lot of the dust will clean off. Be ready for some crazy rope drag at the top! Jun 4, 2015