Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Darren Knezek, Justin McDonald, Aaron Wilkinson
Page Views: 1,498 total · 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

A bouldery start, followed by easier climbing above.

The crux is down low, getting to and clipping the 3rd bolt. The second clip is pretty awkward as well. There is also a bulge after the penultimate bolt that could be difficult.

The rock is quite sharp and leaves tiny, bloody holes if you aren't paying attention.

Protection

9 bolts to chains. The second bolt really needs a long-ish draw or the biner gate will open on the rock. There was one other bolt where I wasn't happy with the lie of the biner, but I don't remember which one.

Location

This is the fourth-from-the-left route on The Jobsite, at the far left of the area.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10b
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10b
"...could be difficult", but I'm not sure because I went slightly left rather than straight over the bulge.

I also tried the start several times and took 4 or 5 small falls onto the second bolt. Finally I decided I was wasting my belayer's time and used the "French" method to clip the third bolt. However, I think the start is probably 5.10.

Anyway, I climbed it in shameful fashion so take my 5.10a rating with a large grain of salt. Ask at MountainWorks in Provo if you must know. Apr 16, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10b
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10b
I finally got back and redpointed this yesterday. The start is definitely mid-5.10 (I changed my rating from 5.10a to 5.10b). Apr 17, 2008
I really liked the opening sequence. Fun steep edges, that lead to easy stuff. I could agree that it is 5.10a/b Nov 17, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This is my favorite route over here. The start really didn't seem too bad this time around. Felt like .10a. Just depends on which holds you grab, I guess. Jun 22, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
 
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
 
Yeah, I thought the first move alone moves this higher on my list. The rest of the climb is pretty easy but fun, but the move up to the second bolt is sweet. Jun 22, 2009
Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  5.10b
Brian Koralewski   Springville, UT
  5.10b
Worth doing if you've climbed everything else. A little bit sharp. Nov 27, 2009
BJB
Texas
  5.10a/b
BJB   Texas
  5.10a/b
I really liked the bouldery start but felt like the climb was pretty good all the way up as well. May 29, 2011
Brody Smith  
 
What a fun route, this 5.10b has a pretty tough boulder start. The climbing starts at a v2, then turns into 5.8 climbing, with a little spice at the end. WELL PROTECTED the first 3 bolts are 2 or 3 feet from one another which makes working the start possible, but then skipping a bolt to send the project is also an option. have no fear to climbing this route, give it a shot, everything is there. SAFE. Mar 23, 2015