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Routes in The Jobsite

Air China Flight 924 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Batman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coyote Certified S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ditchdigger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drivers Test S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flashing the Eave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fluffer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honey Dipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jungle Rot Slot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Learners Permit S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
May I Take Your Order Please? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mucker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paper Route, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roughneck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Run for Cover S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screen Printer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snatch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stable Boy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Superman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Telemarketer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Justin McDonald, Darren Knezek, Aaron Wilkinson
Page Views: 2,078 total, 16/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is a bouldery start to the first bolt, then it is fairly easy cruising the rest of the way to the anchors( probably 5.6 to 5.7 after the start).

The rock is sharp and rough, but reasonably solid. Small, sand-sized particles fell throughout our climbing, but nothing large (shop goggles would have been appreciated for the belayers, actually).

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors.

Location

This is the third-from-left route at The Jobsite, at the far left side of the area.

Photos

ok listen, the starting moves are quite hard for a 5.8, BUTT (its a big butt) its not the starting move, its letting go of one hand and clipping the first bolt. The rest of the climb is super crusier and only has the rating of 5.8 because the start is difficult for one or two seconds. BUTT if you clip this and get lowered the the ground which is only a couple of feet away everyone would say it is a very easy 5.8. ALSO about the jobsite rock, people keep saying its sharp and BLAH BLAH, but it is some of the most STICKY rock in the canyon, try the rock out early in the morning before the sun hits it, and be very very happy about your choice of super sticky rock. Apr 8, 2015
The rock here is very sharp. I'm not a super amazing or strong climber, but found this rock to be very unforgiving. This route was overall quite easy, but I was looking at it as my warm up and the first few moves to the first bolt were powerful and very sharp. Once you get over the first overhanging section the route mellows out quite a bit. Leather hands might be necessary.

The approach from the main path is all talus scree. Pretty slippery. Mar 20, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
It seems like this is a bit misleading to call 5.8 - the start felt bouldery 5.9 to me. I've just started climbing in Rock Canyon but the grades seem all over the place on the soft-stiff spectrum. To me LCC and BCC feel fairly consistent (internally, as in 5.10s in LCC tend to be in line with each other, etc) with a few outliers. I guess there have been a lot of different route setters in the area which would explain it, though LCC has had that as well.

I'm not jumping on the RC SUX bandwagon, just making an observation. Aug 21, 2014
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.8
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.8
With all the traffic this route gets it is pretty clean now. Mar 14, 2010
Brian Koralewski
Springville, Utah
  5.8
Brian Koralewski   Springville, Utah
  5.8
The first move is about 5.9. Pretty good route. Nov 27, 2009
I would agree that it is nowhere near 5.10. In fact when I was first told about the route right after the FA I was told it was hard 5.7. The opening move is a bit bouldery, but after the 3rd move, it is easy sailing to the top.
This is the best first pitch to Snatch in my opinion. Nov 17, 2008
I don't agree with a .10a rating on this climb. The start is bouldery with a few power moves, but can be easily moved through. Jul 20, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
For what it's worth, someone rated this 5.10a in Rockclimbing.com's database. I didn't think it was quite that hard, but I'm not very good at judging ratings. Apr 16, 2007