Type: Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: BBQ
Page Views: 624 total · 8/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Mar 28, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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A.K.A. Crushinhosen - Get your crushing pants on for this big bastard!

Starts on a difficult bouldery roof pull with small holds. Rock on a right foot to a tiny pocket and keep moving through some deliciously desperate climbing on small pockets and tiny crimps to the fifth bolt.

Snag a rest under a bulge right before you battle your way up it. Cling tenaciously to a layback flake and then proceed to use a series of side pulls and strange pinch holds to a thick black ledge. After this crux the climbing becomes five ten plus slab navigating with big moves to decent holds.

Be careful at a big black ledge around the ninth bolt. Grab the black mushroom hold with your right hand...it's sick! At this ledge A Little Kush starts to share holds with Stakes Are High. Move left on some insecure strange side pulls and pockets to a ledge in a blonde dihedral. The bolt might be hidden but its a good clip when you reach it. From there the final push is on brilliant black slab with a series of sick pockets and good side pulls that gets steep and worrisome since the anchors still feel like they are a million feet away.

Push forth and hang on! The brutal beginning gets you pumped but good rests on big ledges allow you to get it all back and keep climbing up what becomes the something similar to The Big Black Face without end. Find the anchors and enjoy the view...just like the climbing...it's pretty sick!

Location

Find the biggest baddest buttress on the very far right hand side of The Danks. A Little Kush is just to the left of Stakes Are High and So Am I.

Protection

Use a fully intact 60 meter rope. Bring 14 quickdraws. Open Anchors. Stick clipping the first and second bolts are recommended if this is your first rodeo.

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