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Routes in The Danks

A Little Kush For The Final Push S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beer Goggles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black and Tan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blowin' Kisses At Disinterested Bitches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Sky Blond S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blueberry Train Wreck S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blunt Arete, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Booze Cruize S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Coin Operated Killing Machine S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faded S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freakin' High S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GoldShlonger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hash It Out S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippie Grenade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Housed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurtin' for a Squirtin' S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Like These Plants S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
If We All Had a Bong Weed All Get Along S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jackinated S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jessica Crimpson S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
JuggerMeister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kim Gnardashian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laughing Grass S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mary Jane S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munchies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Bitch Makes Pizza S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
My bitch ain't no lady S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pabst Blue Ribbon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Party Foul S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Party In My Pants S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Patina Aguilera S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pickin' Fights With Dykes On Bikes While Wearing Sexy Spandex Tights S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Puke Stain, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roach, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Root Beer'd S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sausage Party S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schmitt's Gay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Screaming Barfies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
She Ain't No Lady Unless She's 280 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Smearnoff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smoke Like a Chimney S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stakes Are High And So Am I S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sticky Icky S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tellin' Charming Lies Between Thunder Thighs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This Is Your Brain On Jugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Drunk To Huck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Transversetite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Twist One Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upchuck S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: J.Coin
Page Views: 545 total, 8/month
Shared By: jamison coin on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Face climbing on awesome pockets until you can reach the stem out left (which makes this 5.10) and start twisting and turning your way up into the dihedral.

Location

Danks

Protection

8 quickdraws and some zig-zags

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.10a
Franck Vee  
  5.10a
This is a unique 10a. The first part would make for a fun route in its own right, classical pocket pulling on great rock.

Then, as soon as you're out of pocket, you need to realize you're now in position to stem on the other side of the canyon (or your belayer can let you know, after a solid minute of you getting desperately pumped and wondering how the hell can a 10a be that hard!).

The stemming part isn't so hard, just fun creative climbing, though if you're not used to stemming it may not feel as obvious.

This is a must-do IMO regardless of the grade you're looking to climb, just one of those fun remarkable climbs you need to get on.

I disagree somewhat with Angie, I'm 5'7" and found the stemming quite doable. Perhaps if you're 5' or not flexible it may feel different (or not that used to steming). Just go for it! Jul 25, 2017
Angie Jacobsen
St. Paul, MN
 
Angie Jacobsen   St. Paul, MN
 
Super fun route, but VERY height dependent. I couldn't stem out until I was nearly to the clip near the roof feature, and climbing only the face was pretty stout. Others climbers I was with could stem right from the start. Either way, highly recommended! Sep 9, 2015