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Routes in (2) Clocktower

Albatross T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Green Turtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bomb Fuse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caterpillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Civil Disobedience T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Concave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Blue Temptation V0 4
Detention T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Firecracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hippie Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jefferson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North by Northeast T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way Ticket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Probation Officer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea Dogs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skin Friction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake in the Grass T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suspended T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedding Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 36 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 22, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Rock Climbing Taiwan really botched the description on this one. Given two stars, this route is barely deserving of one. Scramble up the bottom shelf to the wide ledge, walk up to the next crack, scramble up this to the undercling, protect with a 4" piece (no idea why the book only recommends to 2"), then traverse right and mantel up to the ledge. Going straight up through the horizontals could be good unprotected fun, but a fall would be certain to snap some ankles.

Location

Just left of Pondside Chimney, just right of Discipline Chimney

Protection

Gear to 4"
Rappel: 316 steel (2011)

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