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Routes in (2) Clocktower

Albatross T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Green Turtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bomb Fuse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caterpillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Civil Disobedience T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Concave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Blue Temptation V0 4
Detention T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Firecracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hippie Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jefferson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North by Northeast T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way Ticket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Probation Officer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea Dogs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skin Friction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake in the Grass T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suspended T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedding Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 69 total, 2/month
Shared By: greg k on Mar 20, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

wonderful crack with stiff kick in the pants just before topping out. glad i taped up for this one; i had the whole farm hanging on that last jam.
guidebook mentions the possibility of linking diagonal with one of the upper pitches: although rope-drag wasn't problematic, the rope-eating cracks at the ledge dissuade any further vertical progress. anchor consists of 3 glue-ins (2011) on top of ledge.

Location

obvious diagonal crack running the length of lower clocktower

Protection

standard rack to 2".
Awkwardly positioned 316 steel anchor (2011)

You can also walk off or continue upwards.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
This route is totally incredible. It takes you through all of the coolest features on the Clocktower, and some of the most consistent jamming at the Dong. Easy scrambling to the leftward traverse, some seriously overhanging tufa-like sickness, to a rest where it crosses Wedding Day, into the crux jam long throw to the flake step around. Gotta go back and red-point this beast.

In just 40ish feet this thing packs a punch!

Oh yeah, and double up on gear from 1/2" to 3/4". May 12, 2014