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Routes in (2) Clocktower

Albatross T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Green Turtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black President T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bomb Fuse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caterpillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Civil Disobedience T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Concave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Blue Temptation V0 4
Detention T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Firecracker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hippie Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jefferson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North by Northeast T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Way Ticket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Probation Officer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea Dogs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Skin Friction T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake in the Grass T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suspended T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedding Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: greg k on Dec 14, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Climbing starts early on. The rock is spectacular and eats gear. The 10ish climbing is only until the ledge (Broadway). The upper half is 5.8 at most. In two pitches can be easily protected with single set of cams. A more judicious use of nuts and cams might be in order for one pitch push.

Location

Vertical fractures/fins mark the obvious start of Wedding Day. Continue past crux to ledge, then up dihedral to top. Belay from gear. Rap from fixed anchors at summit.

Protection

Up to #3 camalot
Sling anchor (2016)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
The rap station described above has been replaced by rope-threaded tubular webbing with a titanium ring. Solid. Jan 29, 2017
Danger
Taipei City
  5.10b
Danger   Taipei City
  5.10b
Like Nate said the loads of features in the rock allow for plenty of options, but going by the book you go into the concave section straight into the overhang. Solid 5.10 climbing with some jams to be had as well as loads of pinches and sidepulls. Place your cams, pass the concave section and you're golden.

The best anchors to get down on are a ratty looking but probably alright pair of tubular webbing slings, with an equally ratty looking but probably ok pair of rap rings. Aug 3, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
There are so many routes that start at the same spot of the Clocktower that finding the "correct" line for this can take some figuring out. For my first few ascents of this route, I was actually doing something that isn't listed as a route or even a variation in any guidebook.

The route Diagonal starts at the same place, but traverses across the wall through the thin hands crack (10d).

The route East Arete starts just around the corner to the right, pulls an overhang, and continues up through easier ground to the ledge, staying on the corner the whole time.

This route begins just below the fins and cracks that are the most obvious features of the Clocktower east face. If you follow the more continuous crack on the left side of the overhang, the route is 10a. It's really only one move. But if you stay about five feet to the right, essentially starting as for Diagonal, but not straying right onto East Arete, then you are doing what can only be called a variation, I'll call it Wedding Night. It's probably more like 10c/d, as it is continuously overhanging, and the crux comes from pinching the slopey fins... very little jamming to be had. Just before the ledge, you can step right, or do a direct finish of essentially a single move. This variation is, in my opinion, the best option.

Save your #3 for just above the ledge. Mar 2, 2013