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Routes in Ivory Tower

Excalibur S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 480 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Pat and Russ
Page Views: 1,371 total, 40/month
Shared By: MAKB on Feb 9, 2015
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

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23 Opinions

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Description

Climb up a big pinnacle to a great summit which of course has a sword in the top of it. There are 7 sets of anchors which make it possible to do 7 pitches. But the last pitch is probably less than 40 feet and the others can be linked. For this reason its best to think of it as 6 pitches.

P1: 5.9 - start up slab and then climb steep rock to ledge
P2: 5.10a - longest pitch
P3: 5.10a
P4: 5.10c - crux
P5: 5.10a
P6: 5.9 - to summit

Location

Hike past Satori about 100 yards and the next route is Excalibur.

Protection

12 bolts and 60m rope are required. As for most routes in Potrero a 70m rope and 20 some draws will make for a much more pleasant outing because of linked pitches and fewer raps.
Jake Ryan
Gilbert, Arizona
  5.10a
Jake Ryan   Gilbert, Arizona
  5.10a
10a at the most!

I think this should be a classic moderate. It was our first in PC and it gave us a real perspective of the town, the ridges, the height, approaches etc. Had a really successful trip and feel it was kicked off by Excalibur! May 30, 2017
Ryan McDermott
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.9+
Ryan McDermott   Pittsburgh, PA
  5.9+
Five pitches, not six, with 70m rope. Climbed 1, linked 2&3, 4&5, very straightforward. Crack pitch is really cool--hand/fist crack inside offwidth. Didn't even realize I had done the "crux," and my 67-year-old uncle didn't either. The crack pitch is probably more consistently hard than the "10c" pitch. Worth it all, including a major approach by EPC standards, for the spectacular summit! Feb 6, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
I agree that it is very easy for the grade. One move wonder perhaps. Good exposure, palm tree belay and cool summit. Climbing is so-so. Jan 28, 2017
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Very fun route. Worth doing. It's moderate, generously bolted and if you need to, you can aid the crux. Very cool "sword" at the top of the climb. We rapped at every set of anchors to avoid snagging our rope. There is a lot of flora and fauna on the route. In fact, bring some tools to remove some of the plants that are directly on the route.

To get to this route, follow the trail to Satori and when you get there keep following the trail at the base of the cliff (longer than you think) until you arrive at a low angle, bolted start.

Pitch 6: Don't stop at the first set of chains, keep going to the chains just below the ridge line. There is one more bolt above the chains to keep you safe while enjoying the view. Feb 20, 2016
Paul-B
 
Paul-B  
 
Fun route, but very overgraded. Probably 10a at best, even for EPC. Also, the 4 foot bolt spacing is a bit much.....


Still, summit is definitely worth the climb

Also, hiking "past satori" means hiking down hill from satori. Got a bit confused by that at first Jan 1, 2016