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Excalibur

5.10a, Sport, 480 ft, 6 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 65 votes
FA: Pat and Russ
International > N America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > El Toro (The Fr… > Ivory Tower

Description

Climb up a big pinnacle to a great summit which of course has a sword in the top of it. There are 7 sets of anchors which make it possible to do 7 pitches. But the last pitch is probably less than 40 feet and the others can be linked. For this reason its best to think of it as 6 pitches.

P1: 5.9 - start up slab and then climb steep rock to ledge
P2: 5.10a - longest pitch
P3: 5.10a
P4: 5.10c - crux
P5: 5.10a
P6: 5.9 - to summit

Location

Hike past Satori about 100 yards and the next route is Excalibur.

Protection

12 bolts and 60m rope are required. As for most routes in Potrero a 70m rope and 20 some draws will make for a much more pleasant outing because of linked pitches and fewer raps.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Second half of the 2nd pitch... as you can see, you don't have to climb it as an offwidth.  Plenty of face holds. Photo by Adrian Burke
[Hide Photo] Second half of the 2nd pitch... as you can see, you don't have to climb it as an offwidth. Plenty of face holds. Photo by Adrian Burke
if you stop at the chains at the top of the 6th, you will miss the actual ridge summit and sword in the stone.  I'm climbing the last bolts to the actual ridge line.  There are chains below the ridge. Photo by Adrian Burke
[Hide Photo] if you stop at the chains at the top of the 6th, you will miss the actual ridge summit and sword in the stone. I'm climbing the last bolts to the actual ridge line. There are chains below the…
Starting up P3.  Crux at the broken roof?  I guess so.  Jugs and feet galore.
[Hide Photo] Starting up P3. Crux at the broken roof? I guess so. Jugs and feet galore.
Leading up the first pitch.  The first 1/2 is a bolted scramble, then you come to move or two.  Much fun. Photo by Adrian Burke
[Hide Photo] Leading up the first pitch. The first 1/2 is a bolted scramble, then you come to move or two. Much fun. Photo by Adrian Burke
Further up the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Further up the first pitch.
coming up P2, a fun offwidth.
[Hide Photo] coming up P2, a fun offwidth.
On the summit.  Photo by Adrian Burke
[Hide Photo] On the summit. Photo by Adrian Burke
Walking the 3rd class scramble above El Bobo, heading toward Satori and Excalibur.
[Hide Photo] Walking the 3rd class scramble above El Bobo, heading toward Satori and Excalibur.
Near the top of the 6th pitch, excluding the last few bolts to the ridge.  Photo by Adrian Burke
[Hide Photo] Near the top of the 6th pitch, excluding the last few bolts to the ridge. Photo by Adrian Burke
Finishing up the "offwidth" on pitch two.
[Hide Photo] Finishing up the "offwidth" on pitch two.
Top of Pitch 3 I think.
[Hide Photo] Top of Pitch 3 I think.
Finally getting to the "sword" in the stone.  A very fun route.
[Hide Photo] Finally getting to the "sword" in the stone. A very fun route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul-B
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, but very overgraded. Probably 10a at best, even for EPC. Also, the 4 foot bolt spacing is a bit much.....


Still, summit is definitely worth the climb

Also, hiking "past satori" means hiking down hill from satori. Got a bit confused by that at first Jan 1, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. Worth doing. It's moderate, generously bolted and if you need to, you can aid the crux. Very cool "sword" at the top of the climb. We rapped at every set of anchors to avoid snagging our rope. There is a lot of flora and fauna on the route. In fact, bring some tools to remove some of the plants that are directly on the route.

To get to this route, follow the trail to Satori and when you get there keep following the trail at the base of the cliff (longer than you think) until you arrive at a low angle, bolted start.

Pitch 6: Don't stop at the first set of chains, keep going to the chains just below the ridge line. There is one more bolt above the chains to keep you safe while enjoying the view. Feb 20, 2016
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
[Hide Comment] I agree that it is very easy for the grade. One move wonder perhaps. Good exposure, palm tree belay and cool summit. Climbing is so-so. Jan 28, 2017
Ryan McDermott
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Five pitches, not six, with 70m rope. Climbed 1, linked 2&3, 4&5, very straightforward. Crack pitch is really cool--hand/fist crack inside offwidth. Didn't even realize I had done the "crux," and my 67-year-old uncle didn't either. The crack pitch is probably more consistently hard than the "10c" pitch. Worth it all, including a major approach by EPC standards, for the spectacular summit! Feb 6, 2017
Jake Ryan
Gilbert, AZ
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] 10a at the most!

I think this should be a classic moderate. It was our first in PC and it gave us a real perspective of the town, the ridges, the height, approaches etc. Had a really successful trip and feel it was kicked off by Excalibur! May 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] P4 is definitely 10c if you end up going to straight thru the crux toward the next bolt. Most people step right which makes the route 10aish. Feb 19, 2019