Type: Sport, 475 ft (144 m), 5 pitches
FA: Matthew Schutz, Erik Kloeker, Devin Moorad (2/2020)
Page Views: 900 total · 18/month
Shared By: Billy Simek on Jan 21, 2021
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The infamous new route to the left of "Excalibur" actually climbs fairly well, with the exception of a few chossy sections. Could become much better and safer if the middle section was cleaned up a bit more.

P1 (5.9) -- 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Good, consistent climbing up standard Potrero low-angle limestone. Nothing super technical. Can be linked into P2 with an 80M, probably a 70M too.

P2 (5.9) -- 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Starts with more of the same as P1, but rock quality decreases as you go up. Probably avoid pulling on the large flake mid-pitch. Be wary of loose rock when climbing onto the belay ledge.

P3 (5.10b) -- 13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Climb up and slightly right on stacked blocks to a white, scarred face above. Be careful of loose rock to the left and right in this section. Once in the higher dihedral feature, enjoy more solid stone and good movement on flakes and arête features.

P4 (5.8) -- 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Short, but decent. Not much to it besides a long move or two. Recommend linking with P3 for a better belay ledge.

P5 (5.8) -- 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Climb blocky, columnar features on mostly solid rock to the summit. Enjoyable.

Descent: 5 rappels will get you back to the ground. Be safe!

Location Suggest change

Starts up the slab to the left of "Excalibur" and climbs on the right side of the obvious arête feature up the Ivory Tower.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts (see above) and bolted anchors w/ chain.

Photos

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