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Routes in Upper Tier Main Crag

Blue Plate Special T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creep or Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Damp Dayz T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Maw, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not on a Weak Day T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Outer Edge, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schnoz, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shelter From the Storm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Simple Pleasures S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Singularity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summit Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Synchronicity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Table 4 2 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wet Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What U See is What U Get T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey, 2015
Page Views: 691 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Jan 19, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Classic! Not on a Weak Day is a challenging route that is in your face with a little bit of everything. Classic hand and fist stacks are followed by a powerful and tenuous lieback then an overhanging face at the top. It has one of the best sections of offwidth on the Front Range. Prior to the FA we checked out Randy Leavitt on YouTube to get pointers on hand and fist stacking.

P1) 5.11. Climb the obvious overhanging offwidth to a stance, power up the lieback passing two bolts to another stance, then angle right and up passing two more bolts to the anchors. Save the number four for the top.

Location

On the upper tier of the main cliff above Totem Tower, it is located on the left wall of the gash left of Swingtime. It is immediately right of The Outer Edge. See photo.

Approaches:
1) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
2) Climb Spare Rib, and continue past the anchors up to the base of the route.
3) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the cliff then follow cairns angling up and right in a trough. Scramble up behind Totem Tower and up to the base of the route.

Protection

Four bolts and a few cams (0.75 to 2.5 inches), two new style #5 Camalots for the OW, and a 4 or 4.5 for the top.

Photos

A-W
  5.11
A-W  
  5.11
Really nice climb. If doing this again, I would take two #5s for the offwidth (Friend or Camalot), a #2 or a #3 for between the 3rd and 4th bolt, then a #4 for after the last bolt. This gets shade in the afternoon. Aug 13, 2018

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