Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey, 2015|
|Page Views:||1,312 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Duncan on Jan 19, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
P1) 5.11. Climb the obvious overhanging offwidth to a stance, power up the lieback passing two bolts to another stance, then angle right and up passing two more bolts to the anchors. Save the number four for the top.
1) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
2) Climb Spare Rib, and continue past the anchors up to the base of the route.
3) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the cliff then follow cairns angling up and right in a trough. Scramble up behind Totem Tower and up to the base of the route.