Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey, 2015|
|Page Views:||460 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Duncan on Jan 19, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
P1. 5.10d/11a. Boulder up and left from the base of the Not on a Weak Day offwidth past a bolt. Tenuously lieback past two more bolts then up a dihedral. Ascend another dihedral to a stance below the upper overhangs. Clip a bolt, step up on to the face, then move right to the arete. With hands on the arete and feet on the overhanging right face, climb the spectacular arete past two more bolts to bolted anchors (left of the Not on a Weak Day anchors).
1) Climb Levitation or one of the other central slab routes, then scramble up to the base of the route.
2) Climb Spare Rib, and continue past the anchors up to the base of the route.
3) Walk left around the west end of Main Crag. Head up to the base of the cliff then angle up and right following cairns in a trough. Scramble up behind Totem Tower and up to the base of the route.