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Routes in Upper Tier Main Crag

Blue Plate Special T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creep or Crawl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Damp Dayz T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Maw, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not on a Weak Day T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Outer Edge, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schnoz, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shelter From the Storm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Simple Pleasures S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Singularity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summit Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Synchronicity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Table 4 2 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wet Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What U See is What U Get T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Duncan and Dede Humphrey 2014
Page Views: 424 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Dec 13, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route has great slab climbing followed by fun jugs out a roof. This may be the best moderate route at Crosier.

Start in a left-facing dihedral at the west end of the upper cliff behind Squat Tower.

P1 5.8. Climb the dihedral, and do the crux lieback moves onto the slab to the right. Continue diagonalling up and right past a bolt then climb a left arching hand crack in a flake. Slide past a tree then head straight up on plates and slabs to a big ledge with a huge, dead tree stump. The chain anchors are 35m from the ground.

P2 5.6. Climb straight up the slab above towards the roof. Turn the roof via jugs on the right side.

Descent: after enjoying the summit, head back and climber's right. Next scramble down the climber's right side of the large gash. Finally head climber's left, passing behind Totem Tower, back to the base of the route.

Location

This is located on the upper cliff band starting behind Squat Tower. Approach one of three ways: first by climbing the first pitch of Squat Tower then traversing left to the base of the route. The second is by climbing to the top of Squat Tower and scrambling via third class down the back side of the tower. Or the third is by hiking up the gully around the west end of Main Crag. If you hike up, once around the west end of Main Crag head all the way up to the cliff before heading up the gully. Then follow cairns along the cliff to avoid a lot of down timber and bushwhacking.

See the topo and photos.

Protection

Two bolts, nuts and cams to 2.5 inches, and tricams are helpful.

Photos

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