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Routes in On the Ebb Tide of Death Boulder

Acromion Division V6 7A
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Type: Boulder, 22 ft
FA: Some Unanimous Bloke
Page Views: 324 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on Jan 11, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Acromion Division is a striking line that most (the few and the proud who frequent CA) who manage to straggle and venture into Southie have walked past for years as it is both awe inspiring, chiseled (a figure of speech) and its most obvious feature is that it is larger than life.

The route has been done as a stand start at V6 from the right hand fin and left hand pinch fin. A sit also goes at V8/9, adding 3-4 moves on poor feet, but solid rock. There are two loose hand holds at the start, so don't pull on or loosen them as they likely might fracture the other starting holds which are solid.

Location

The location is on the southeast corner of On The Ebb Tide of Death.
The stand start begins on a right hand jug fin at chest height and a left hand pinch-fin which then fires up to a block edge to match. The next few moves are the crux. Start with getting your feet up high lock off nail a small right hand crimp high on the arete, bring the left up to a sharp pinky, ring and middle finger tapered crimp with the left, that is about a foot and a half lower than the right. Figure out your feet and make an off kilter cross body, gravity defiant cross with the left to the bad sloper and then carefully rotate your right hand into the good sloper before moving up to better holds and a thank jeebus Hueco before topping out. Sticking to the arete is imperative to appreciate the moves on this beauty.
The sit start begins on two good edges with bad feet, rely on you Acromion and Shoulder Girdle to nail a small fin crimp, and then move into the stand start of (nail the left pinch fin with the left, hit the right fin jug) and hold on until the top. This, leading into the stand start makes the grade V8/9.
The descent route is a dirty 22 foot V1+ slab seven feet to the left of the arete or, down climbing to the finishing hueco two feet below and to the left of the arete lip and dropping down onto pads.

Protection

This route requires 3~ pads and for the crux of the arete, a very attentive spotter. Making the cross to the bad sloper before going to the better sloper, which signifies the end of the business will send you off explosively....as will making the delicately powerful and off balance crimp moves preceding the slopers.

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